Quarried perfection. Sustained and intricate climbing with good protection and rock. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 6a, 30m. Follow Lich Gates to its second (poor) peg and step up left to below a small overhang. Good nuts in a short crack down to its left. Move up over the overhang, 2 pegs, and then climb a flared groove below a pink wall, peg on left, rightwards to a difficult exit, 2 pegs, and a rest on the right. Traverse the fingery break left, 2 pegs, to a bolted stance.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb up the wall on the right, peg out left and a bolt on the right, to a groove and 2 pegs. Follow the groove to a left-trending break and move left, peg, and up into a small overhang capped corner/groove, peg. At the overhang go left, peg, and pull over the overhang to finish. © Rockfax
R Harrison, G A Jenkin (pitch 1 C Perry D Pearce (4 pts aid) 28/Jun/1968, pitch 2 C Perry, J Harwood (2 pts aid) 17/Nov/1968 (finishing up PWT?)) 18/Dec/1977.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , So you think your an Avon Climber? , South West in Extremis , Avon Gorge *** Routes
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents