UKC

27m.

Rockfax Description
A fun pitch that requires a number of interesting manoeuvres not found in the average rock climbing manual. Start at a large tree close to the back of the ledge, next to two acute overhangs.
Climb up the tree and fix a runner in the branches before stepping onto the slab above the overhangs. Without the aid of a large rock anchor bolt climb the slab to a peg at the base of a right-leaning flake. Climb the flake, peg, to its end and a useful iron spike runner. Pull up the steep wall above the flake and finish steeply leftwards on good holds, passing another iron spike runner midway. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Tree Climbing Routes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS, Avon VS challenge, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Evening Wall Complete Collection, Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS, Avon Gorge easier classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dickie91 11 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Really funky route, lots to think about with various rock/tree/loose blocks
βeta?
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βeta: Really funky route, lots to think about with various rock/tree/loose blocks
Webster 8 Jun Show βeta
βeta: I think several crucial tree branches have gone since the guide was published, and one of the remaining ones is partially dead, so doing it without the rock bolt as a hand hold is almost impossible at the grade...
βeta?
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βeta: I think several crucial tree branches have gone since the guide was published, and one of the remaining ones is partially dead, so doing it without the rock bolt as a hand hold is almost impossible at the grade...
Steve Bartle 22 Apr Show βeta
βeta: A helpful hold out right for the move up (from the flake) over the bulge. Without that the hands are slopey, but to be fair the right foot hold is big, but polished
Show beta
βeta: A helpful hold out right for the move up (from the flake) over the bulge. Without that the hands are slopey, but to be fair the right foot hold is big, but polished
David Clover 5 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Down to 1 bad peg before the flake, and the peg towards the top near the last spike is dangerously loose under a wobbly death bloke. Needs trundling i think. Replacing a peg on the flake would ease the mantle grade as well
Show beta
βeta: Down to 1 bad peg before the flake, and the peg towards the top near the last spike is dangerously loose under a wobbly death bloke. Needs trundling i think. Replacing a peg on the flake would ease the mantle grade as well
APang 24 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: some loose rock at the top so check your gear isn't going to dislodge some of the larger bits!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: some loose rock at the top so check your gear isn't going to dislodge some of the larger bits!
Mattia 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great airy climb high up in the gorge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great airy climb high up in the gorge
Foz Forster 25 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route with some bold exposed moves along the flake. fair play to Ander for seconding in hob nailed boots ????
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route with some bold exposed moves along the flake. fair play to Ander for seconding in hob nailed boots ????

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Route of Interest

Giant's Cave Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))
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