UKC

47m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Exposed and quirky traversing taking in some of Avon's most impressive locations. Start from The Gallery to the left of Lunchtime Ledge. Combined with Mike's Mistake it forms a classically varied way up the cliff. The last pitch and a half is shared with Pink Wall Direct.
1) 16m. Traverse easily left beneath an overhang to a tree. Continue in the same line to pegs and a stance under the leaning headwall.
2) 4c, 22m. Downclimb the groove on the left to point level with the lowest of the three huge iron spikes in the sheer left wall. Make a tricky move to grab the first spike and then romp up the spikes to a fine and very exposed stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © Rockfax

M W Harvey (B G N Page, H Morgan with aid 1955) 1956.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), Avon HVS challenge, Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dino Dave 10 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Left-hand peg at the P1 belay is looking pretty dodgy with a fracture on the ring.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left-hand peg at the P1 belay is looking pretty dodgy with a fracture on the ring.
Tall Oak 22 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Led P2 and P3 in one. Loved the footwork to downclimb. The spikes seems cool to monkey around on. Favourite part was the final crack traverse where I could get my teeth stuck into.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led P2 and P3 in one. Loved the footwork to downclimb. The spikes seems cool to monkey around on. Favourite part was the final crack traverse where I could get my teeth stuck into.
Will789 7 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The 2nd pitch is well protected on lead but quite bold for the second (especially at the crux) due to the downclimb. Backrope off the fixed krab if the second isn't feeling confident.
Show beta
βeta: The 2nd pitch is well protected on lead but quite bold for the second (especially at the crux) due to the downclimb. Backrope off the fixed krab if the second isn't feeling confident.
Kiddie68 24 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Great day out with Reveille/Corner link-up. Felt quite stiff for HVS requiring a solid team, the down-climb is not to be sniffed at!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great day out with Reveille/Corner link-up. Felt quite stiff for HVS requiring a solid team, the down-climb is not to be sniffed at!
lieraza 23 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There was already tat and a crab on the peg on P2 that immediately precedes the downclimb, but the tat looked a bit faded and old, may well be fine but we added a fresh bit just to be sure.
Show beta
βeta: There was already tat and a crab on the peg on P2 that immediately precedes the downclimb, but the tat looked a bit faded and old, may well be fine but we added a fresh bit just to be sure.
Euan Todd 16 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Plenty of medium gear required to belay at the Aerodrome, unusually for Avon there's no in-situ gear or trees.
Show beta
βeta: Plenty of medium gear required to belay at the Aerodrome, unusually for Avon there's no in-situ gear or trees.
fammer 20 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Started to go up from the tree at the gallery, seemed prone to falling down so backed off. Went left instead of up in the end, which I think is the right way.
Show beta
βeta: Started to go up from the tree at the gallery, seemed prone to falling down so backed off. Went left instead of up in the end, which I think is the right way.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 32
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Hell Gates

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))
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