UKC Logbook - 'Piton Route'

58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A 'Classic Rock' tick taking on the well defined right-to-left diagonal line that slants up the left side of the crest of the buttress. Start at a peg belay at the top of Exhibition Slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Move left 6m to a wide corner. Climb the corner to a peg and the make a precarious sequence of moves left across the wall to an easing. Continue traversing left beneath the overhangs and then step down to a sloping niche and peg and nut belays.
2) 4a, 14m. Step back right and move up and then left to pass the overhang. Climb a slab on the left to a small tree and then continue up a short steep crack to a larger tree and belay.
3) 4b, 24m. Behind and left of the tree is a wall with a borehole. Take the wall via diagonal cracks, steep at first, to an easing up and left. Continue up ledges past a vertical iron spike and then via easier ground to the top and a substantial twin tree belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Classic VS's , 2020/21 Trips , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Best of the Gorge , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Somerset Sufferfest , Avon GORGEous , Dewimpification , Llidberis South West Tour

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User	Date		Notes
Dickie91	11 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: There is a worrying loose block at the top of pitch 2 which looks like a perfect handhold. A second loose block at the start of pitch 3. Handle with care!!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: There is a worrying loose block at the top of pitch 2 which looks like a perfect handhold. A second loose block at the start of pitch 3. Handle with care!!
simoncov	19 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Peg for starting belay is hidden above a small ledge (with a crack on the left) where the wall steepens just before the traverse left. I didn't find it until I started climbing.
Show beta βeta: Peg for starting belay is hidden above a small ledge (with a crack on the left) where the wall steepens just before the traverse left. I didn't find it until I started climbing.
Steve Neads	12 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Led pitches 1 and 3 - many years since I last climbed it, but still a great route	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Led pitches 1 and 3 - many years since I last climbed it, but still a great route
ElBarto	25 Apr, 2019	Show βeta βeta: It\'s getting quite polished now, especially on the hard move of the first pitch. Second pitch slab is very run out although Terry thinks there\'s a nut placement to be had in one of the slabs handholds that I didn\'t see.
Show beta βeta: It's getting quite polished now, especially on the hard move of the first pitch. Second pitch slab is very run out although Terry thinks there's a nut placement to be had in one of the slabs handholds that I didn't see.