Rockfax Description
A 'Classic Rock' tick taking on the well defined right-to-left diagonal line that slants up the left side of the crest of the buttress. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of Exhibition Slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Move left 6m to a wide corner. Climb the corner to a peg and the make a precarious sequence of moves left across the wall to an easing. Continue traversing left beneath the overhangs and then step down to a sloping niche and peg and nut belays.
2) 4a, 14m. Step back right and move up and then left to pass the overhang. Climb a slab on the left to a small tree and then continue up a short steep crack to a larger tree and belay.
3) 4b, 24m. Behind and left of the tree is a wall with a borehole. Take the wall via diagonal cracks, steep at first, to an easing up and left. Continue up ledges past a vertical iron spike and then via easier ground to the top and a substantial twin tree belay. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon VSes , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Avon VS challenge , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Classic VS's , 2020/21 Trips , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , Avon Gorge easier classics , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dickie91 | 11 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a worrying loose block at the top of pitch 2 which looks like a perfect handhold. A second loose block at the start of pitch 3. Handle with care!! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a worrying loose block at the top of pitch 2 which looks like a perfect handhold. A second loose block at the start of pitch 3. Handle with care!! |
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| simoncov | 19 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Peg for starting belay is hidden above a small ledge (with a crack on the left) where the wall steepens just before the traverse left. I didn't find it until I started climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Peg for starting belay is hidden above a small ledge (with a crack on the left) where the wall steepens just before the traverse left. I didn't find it until I started climbing. |
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| Steve Neads | 12 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led pitches 1 and 3 - many years since I last climbed it, but still a great route | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Led pitches 1 and 3 - many years since I last climbed it, but still a great route |
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| ElBarto | 25 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: It\'s getting quite polished now, especially on the hard move of the first pitch. Second pitch slab is very run out although Terry thinks there\'s a nut placement to be had in one of the slabs handholds that I didn\'t see. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: It's getting quite polished now, especially on the hard move of the first pitch. Second pitch slab is very run out although Terry thinks there's a nut placement to be had in one of the slabs handholds that I didn't see. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Main Area)
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Giant's Cave Buttress
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))