Rockfax Description
An all-time winner finding its way through steep territory on the first pitch and in airy locations on the second. Start by scrambling to a belay at the lowest of three small trees.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb small corners to the highest tree and then climb the wall on the right to the overhangs and a peg. Pull over the overhang past another peg, and traverse right between the overhangs until good holds allow a stiff pull to be made through the second overhang, peg. Climb the rib and step left to a short corner and an awkward stance just above, at the base of a corner below a steep wall.
2) 4c, 45m. Move left around the edge of the steep wall and into a corner, peg. Climb up right to the arete and then with hands on the lip of an overhang traverse back left and pull over the overhang on good holds. Move right once again to the arete and gain the long, easy-angled finishing slab. © Rockfax
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber? , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1 , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Avon Gorge *** Routes , 23 HVS routes for 2023
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Yaz Kinebas | 14 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: BIG LOOSE FLAKE halfway up the finishing slab. Undercling flake past the tree runner shifted under weight. Think it's just the bottom bit that's loose but the whole large flake sounds v hollow. | βeta? | |
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βeta: BIG LOOSE FLAKE halfway up the finishing slab. Undercling flake past the tree runner shifted under weight. Think it's just the bottom bit that's loose but the whole large flake sounds v hollow. |
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mishabruml | 3 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Euan broke a hold seconding, must have been near the end of the groove on p2 before the crux overlap | βeta? | |
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βeta: Euan broke a hold seconding, must have been near the end of the groove on p2 before the crux overlap |
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badgerjockey | 3 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Beware of very creaky holds on P2 when traversing right before coming back left under the upper roof. They look as though they’re gradually crumbling away and could heave off at any time. Can easily climb without them. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beware of very creaky holds on P2 when traversing right before coming back left under the upper roof. They look as though they’re gradually crumbling away and could heave off at any time. Can easily climb without them. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))