UKC

68m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An all-time winner finding its way through steep territory on the first pitch and in airy locations on the second. Start by scrambling to a belay at the lowest of three small trees.
1) 5a, 23m. Climb small corners to the highest tree and then climb the wall on the right to the overhangs and a peg. Pull over the overhang past another peg, and traverse right between the overhangs until good holds allow a stiff pull to be made through the second overhang, peg. Climb the rib and step left to a short corner and an awkward stance just above, at the base of a corner below a steep wall.
2) 4c, 45m. Move left around the edge of the steep wall and into a corner, peg. Climb up right to the arete and then with hands on the lip of an overhang traverse back left and pull over the overhang on good holds. Move right once again to the arete and gain the long, easy-angled finishing slab. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , Avon gorge road to ruins HVS , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Avon HVS challenge , Best of Avon Gorge VD - HVS , So you think your an Avon Climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Yaz Kinebas 14 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: BIG LOOSE FLAKE halfway up the finishing slab. Undercling flake past the tree runner shifted under weight. Think it's just the bottom bit that's loose but the whole large flake sounds v hollow.
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βeta: BIG LOOSE FLAKE halfway up the finishing slab. Undercling flake past the tree runner shifted under weight. Think it's just the bottom bit that's loose but the whole large flake sounds v hollow.
mishabruml 3 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Euan broke a hold seconding, must have been near the end of the groove on p2 before the crux overlap
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βeta: Euan broke a hold seconding, must have been near the end of the groove on p2 before the crux overlap
badgerjockey 3 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware of very creaky holds on P2 when traversing right before coming back left under the upper roof. They look as though they’re gradually crumbling away and could heave off at any time. Can easily climb without them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware of very creaky holds on P2 when traversing right before coming back left under the upper roof. They look as though they’re gradually crumbling away and could heave off at any time. Can easily climb without them.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 85
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 80
Votes cast 82
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hell Gates

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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