UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good ledge and small tree-belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right.
Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top. © Rockfax

M Putnam, P Hicks, P Todd 16/Oct/1972.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2020/21 Trips , Avon HVS challenge , 2022 Avon Gorge VS - E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
Mthr 19 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Cleared the belay ledge (tree + micro wire belay, could do with a peg) and the route. Slightly sketchy approach but well worth seeking out!
Show beta
βeta: Cleared the belay ledge (tree + micro wire belay, could do with a peg) and the route. Slightly sketchy approach but well worth seeking out!
PaulJepson 19 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn\'t find any bolt to ab off but the two stakes are there. One is solid, the other is very wobbly, so make sure you equalise them properly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't find any bolt to ab off but the two stakes are there. One is solid, the other is very wobbly, so make sure you equalise them properly.

Logged Ascents

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 57
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Malbogies

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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