UKC

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great combination of pitches taking the left-hand of two parallel grooves in the centre of the walls - the visually striking first pitch being a good HVS in its own right. Start at the shallow open corner with a large 'starfish' shaped piece of graffiti on its right wall.
1) 5a, 16m. Forcefully climb the steep corner-crack to a ledge. Bolt belay.
2) 5c, 23m. Take the groove above the stance, which can sprout various plants in the summer, to where it steepens. Move up past a peg and then pull right to the arete. Step back left to the short blank corner, small wire, and climb this to a huge jug at its top, and a hard-to-spot ring peg on the right. Climb the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, P Morgan Mar/1967.

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , CUMC Ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5

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User Date Notes
Ben Hallett 16 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: A size 9 dmm red offset makes a bomber placement on the Crux corner of P2 taking away most of the spookiness.
Show beta
βeta: A size 9 dmm red offset makes a bomber placement on the Crux corner of P2 taking away most of the spookiness.
m_collings 10 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is soft, ordinarily wouldn't say it should get E2 but the insitu ants nests add an unwelcome crux. Sink your fingers deep into the nest (better hold than it looks after the ants vacate) power on up and avoid placing gear to minimise ant bites. Good holds higher up where arms can be shaken out to clear loose ants. Top pitch is stunning, hard moves protected by micro nuts or big gear placed on questionable rock, no ants.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is soft, ordinarily wouldn't say it should get E2 but the insitu ants nests add an unwelcome crux. Sink your fingers deep into the nest (better hold than it looks after the ants vacate) power on up and avoid placing gear to minimise ant bites. Good holds higher up where arms can be shaken out to clear loose ants. Top pitch is stunning, hard moves protected by micro nuts or big gear placed on questionable rock, no ants.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 54
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 53
Votes cast 62
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pink Wall Direct

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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