UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
A steep line on generally decent holds. Start 4m right of the ramp. A corner (gained form the left), ledge and rib lead to the roof and hanging sling. Big and committing moves reach easier ground and the lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An instant success and rapidly becoming popular. Lots of surprisingly good holds in the oppressive looking roof permit a relaxed approach. Start 4 metres right of the base of the ramp.

Step up into the short leaning corner from the left (bolt), move up and get your hands on the projecting ledge up above, bolt. Some pleasing moves directly up the mini-arete reaches the third bolt runner and brings you face to face with the main proposition. Span up leftwards to clip a hanging sling (placed for short-arses) and grasp a welcome jug. With protection from a second fixed sling on an adjacent bolt, pull through the bulge (crux) and finish more easily past a final bolt runner to a new double ring abseil station.

Re-cleaned, part of the roof demolished and re-equipped in 2012. Originally E3 6b the line gained the ramp using the obvious undercut pocket, pulled through the roof direct and summited carefully up the top wall. The new, more direct ‘arête’ start added by Gordon A Jenkin on 24th February 2013.

G A Jenkin, T Penning, M Hopkins, R Goillon, A Tallant 29/Jun/1991.

Ticklists

New Quarry Sport Climbs - Bristol , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , New Quarry Sport , Avon Gorge Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
sashbones 19 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Gave me the Willie\'s leading above the ramp, :( leg and head game is yet to return
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gave me the Willie's leading above the ramp, :( leg and head game is yet to return
badgerjockey 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Replaced the ageing extension sling at the roof today with blue 11mm static. I think the old one was there five years. Long enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Replaced the ageing extension sling at the roof today with blue 11mm static. I think the old one was there five years. Long enough.
Ale152 10 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Once you find the big jugs over the roof, it's fine, but it takes some time to find them!
Show beta
βeta: Once you find the big jugs over the roof, it's fine, but it takes some time to find them!

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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Push the Sky Away

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Leigh Woods)

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