Rockfax Description
A steep line on generally decent holds. Start 4m right of the ramp. A corner (gained form the left), ledge and rib lead to the roof and hanging sling. Big and committing moves reach easier ground and the lower-off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An instant success and rapidly becoming popular. Lots of surprisingly good holds in the oppressive looking roof permit a relaxed approach. Start 4 metres right of the base of the ramp.
Step up into the short leaning corner from the left (bolt), move up and get your hands on the projecting ledge up above, bolt. Some pleasing moves directly up the mini-arete reaches the third bolt runner and brings you face to face with the main proposition. Span up leftwards to clip a hanging sling (placed for short-arses) and grasp a welcome jug. With protection from a second fixed sling on an adjacent bolt, pull through the bulge (crux) and finish more easily past a final bolt runner to a new double ring abseil station.
Re-cleaned, part of the roof demolished and re-equipped in 2012. Originally E3 6b the line gained the ramp using the obvious undercut pocket, pulled through the roof direct and summited carefully up the top wall. The new, more direct ‘arête’ start added by Gordon A Jenkin on 24th February 2013.
G A Jenkin, T Penning, M Hopkins, R Goillon, A Tallant 29/Jun/1991.
New Quarry Sport Climbs - Bristol , 6Bs with stars near Bristol , New Quarry Sport , Avon Gorge Sport Routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
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sashbones | 19 Apr |
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βeta: Gave me the Willie\'s leading above the ramp, :( leg and head game is yet to return | βeta? | |
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βeta: Gave me the Willie's leading above the ramp, :( leg and head game is yet to return |
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badgerjockey | 6 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Replaced the ageing extension sling at the roof today with blue 11mm static. I think the old one was there five years. Long enough. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Replaced the ageing extension sling at the roof today with blue 11mm static. I think the old one was there five years. Long enough. |
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Ale152 | 10 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Once you find the big jugs over the roof, it's fine, but it takes some time to find them! | ||
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βeta: Once you find the big jugs over the roof, it's fine, but it takes some time to find them! |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Leigh Woods)