UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
Immaculate and intricate face climbing up the pockets and grey wall left of the steep black bulges in the middle of the wall. Start on a ledge at the base of the wall beneath the black bulges.
1) 5b, 33m. Climb the left-hand-crack-system to ledges below the black bulges. Move left to the pocket line and climb up past a thread to a peg on the left wall. Make technical moves left, up and back right to the pocket line and continue to a horizontal break. Climb up right to a stance below a corner.
2) 4b, 12m. Climb the corner to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 1966.

Ticklists

Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Bristol 1st E1s, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff), Coronation Street, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Avon Gorge Starred E1s, Suspension bridge rockfax integrale, 2020/21 Trips, So you think your an Avon Climber?, Edwin Drummond - Avon Gorge, 2021, Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Kiddie68 23 Apr Show βeta
βeta: High in the grade. Cool head required but utterly rewarding.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: High in the grade. Cool head required but utterly rewarding.
AlexSavi 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Gardening required on second pitch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gardening required on second pitch
Nickuk 21 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch is totally vegetated at the top. Traverse to suspense probably preferable
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch is totally vegetated at the top. Traverse to suspense probably preferable

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Votes cast 121
High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 114
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Central Buttress

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))
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