UKC

45m.

Rockfax Description
Best completed as a single pitch. Start as for Howhard. Climb up to the horizontal break and move left to the edge of the black stained rock. Head up the steep pocket line and thin crack above to good holds on the right. Move out right and up the wall to a thin break that is follow left to a peg (this is the belay on The Earl of Perth). Move up to the next horizontal break and traverse left for 2m (peg). Climb straight up on hidden holds to a conspicuous jamming crack on the left and follow this to some ledges, continue for 5m on easier ground to the abseil station. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start below the middle of the wall and the large obvious cave. The route climbs the face till a ledge at the base of the cave. Traverse 3 meters right to a thinning in the bulge above the black scaring and the blackness itself(this point can be attain direct). Strenuously pull into the pocket line and follow past a pair of undercut pockets and a finger crack (passing where a block used to be) and pull onto easier holds on the right. Swing rightwards and move up a smooth grey wall on good finger holds to a finger break, making a rising traverse leftwards to the peg belay of Earl of Perth. Traverse 3m Left, Peg, and then just to the right of this, pull on positive but technical and hidden holds straight upwards to the obvious Jamming crack above. Stain to get through this to exit ledges and continue up for 5m or so to the rock anchor and tat. Abseil from here.
Best climbed as a long single pitch but can be split in 2 at the midway belay.

P R Littlejohn 27/Feb/1976.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
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Onsighted
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Route of Interest
Ladder of Desire

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))

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