Rockfax Description
The full-height corner in the centre of the slab provides a superb and very sustained climb. Begin at thin crack left of the corner. Climb the thin crack to the overlap and make difficult moves over it to gain the base of the corner. Sustained and technical moves up the corner reach an easing at mid-height. The upper section of the corner provides more great climbing. © Rockfax
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Alwaysinjured | 5 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: I think the ‘Ye old scrote’ start is a great line. E2 5b/c this way (following the crack line) - it’s just so sustained | ||
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βeta: I think the ‘Ye old scrote’ start is a great line. E2 5b/c this way (following the crack line) - it’s just so sustained |
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J.A.Thomson | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Lead the new start today, and found that there is a sequence that went at the same grad e1 5b over the overlap, using the start of ye olde scrote crack. This has more protected than the old start but more sustained climbing. And found it nice, it dosent let the rout down Enjoy | ||
Show beta
βeta: Lead the new start today, and found that there is a sequence that went at the same grad e1 5b over the overlap, using the start of ye olde scrote crack. This has more protected than the old start but more sustained climbing. And found it nice, it dosent let the rout down Enjoy |
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jimbonfire | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Good lead by Jay. I didn’t climb the original but would suggest the same grade via this line . | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good lead by Jay. I didn’t climb the original but would suggest the same grade via this line . |
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Cherry Bedford | 15 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: Climbed Apr 2021. Start as for Ye Olde Scrote up the thin crack, climb the overhang to the left of the crack and traverse back right (tricky) before rejoining the main corner. Possibly E2 5c in its current form? Definitely worth 2 stars still | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed Apr 2021. Start as for Ye Olde Scrote up the thin crack, climb the overhang to the left of the crack and traverse back right (tricky) before rejoining the main corner. Possibly E2 5c in its current form? Definitely worth 2 stars still |
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Alwaysinjured | 4 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: 04.11.20 Update - the two huge blocks have joined their friends on the beach. The grade of this route is likely to have changed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 04.11.20 Update - the two huge blocks have joined their friends on the beach. The grade of this route is likely to have changed. |
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Alwaysinjured | 15 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: 15.10.20. Beware - there has been a large rockfall on the lower section of this climb (Twinkletoes is also partially affected). Two huge blocks which have cleaved away from the cliff remain and are left hanging. They could fall at any time. This needs urgent attention. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 15.10.20. Beware - there has been a large rockfall on the lower section of this climb (Twinkletoes is also partially affected). Two huge blocks which have cleaved away from the cliff remain and are left hanging. They could fall at any time. This needs urgent attention. |
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)