Rockfax Description
A fine, fingery upper section that takes on the extremely blank-looking area of slab to the left of the Twinkletoes ramp-line. Start at the base of the right-hand of two corners that lead up to the base of the main corner-line of Doors of Perception.
Climb the corner to an overhang and swing up right to a small left-facing corner. Move up this to a ledge on the right (this lower section is common with Twinkletoes). Head up left to the overlap below the blank sheet and a peg 2m above it. Difficult climbing past the peg to a finger slot is followed by more hard moves to another peg. One more fingery sequence moving out right and up leads to a good horizontal break. Move left and finish easily. © Rockfax

Peter Bull Jul/1985.


West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist


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Route of Interest

Milennium Falcon

Grade: E5 6a ***
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