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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
Start at the base of the corners that leads up to the base of the main corner-line of Doors of Perception. Climb the corner to an overhang and swing up right to a small left-facing corner with a very thin crack in the back. A tricky move up this gains a ledge on the right. Take a good thin crack on the right to a large flake and move up into a slim corner on its right. Follow the shallow corner and right-trending ramp to the top passing a detached block with care. © Rockfax

Ticklists

100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , South West Classic VS's , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , South West Coastal Solo

Feedback

User Date Notes
JimOakleyAdventures 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Chose this routes earlier to minimise getting wet and it’s in the sun earlier. Great route with some technical moves A seagull protecting its chicks 5m from the anchor point but once started belaying it’s stopped.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Chose this routes earlier to minimise getting wet and it’s in the sun earlier. Great route with some technical moves A seagull protecting its chicks 5m from the anchor point but once started belaying it’s stopped.
JoeCoxson 29 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lower section has changed with the loss of the bottom of Dawes of Perception, bit bold but solid
Show beta
βeta: Lower section has changed with the loss of the bottom of Dawes of Perception, bit bold but solid
NIGBEE 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Thought this was harder than Lost Horizon and better
Show beta
βeta: Thought this was harder than Lost Horizon and better

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 75
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 78
Votes cast 75
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Albion

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)

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