UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

68m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first pitch of Kinkyboots provides an excellent alternative to the first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, should the tide be in.
1) 4c, 20m. Kinkyboots pitch 1.
2) 5b, 20m. Midnight Cowboy pitch 2.
3) 4b, 28m. Midnight Cowboy pitch 3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A high tide possibility of two great bits of Baggy - the 'fall' of Kinkyboots (pitch 1) and the traverse of Midnight Cowboy (its pitch 2 & 3).

Ticklists

33 By 33 , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Dan’s Delights

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Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 5
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last Exit to Torquay

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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