UKC

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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

61m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first few moves are a Baggy legend. Start by abseiling, or down climbing, the descent ridge to a small ledge about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat downward pointing spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall.
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short! Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping red/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to the top'. © Rockfax

Dave Johnston, Ben Wintringham 19/Oct/1969.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs for a Northerner , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
RichPacker 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rock to place cam for the chasm crossing is wobbly, advice setting up an anchor for belayer on the first pitch. Found getting onto the slab harder than the crossing
Show beta
βeta: Rock to place cam for the chasm crossing is wobbly, advice setting up an anchor for belayer on the first pitch. Found getting onto the slab harder than the crossing
ssutton 22 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Belay stake is near the foot of the pile of rocks, buried in a patch of campion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Belay stake is near the foot of the pile of rocks, buried in a patch of campion.
Bruise Apprentice 29 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The "old thread" on P2 no longer exists.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The "old thread" on P2 no longer exists.
phil456 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 100
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twinkletoes

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Baggy Point)

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