Loading Notifications...
2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first few moves are a Baggy legend, but unfortunately the upper pitch lets the route down. The first pitch provides an excellent alternative to the first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, should the tide be in. Start by abseiling or downclimbing the descent ridge to a small ledge, about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall.
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short! Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake with an old thread. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to a stake belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Kernow, West Country Climbs, South West Climbs for a Northerner, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Baggy point road to ruins HVS, South West VDiff-HVS, Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

Feedback

User Date Notes
phil456 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture
 
Show beta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture

Logged Ascents

780 users have logged this
150 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 84
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 75
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Albion

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Lundy)