UKC

61m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first few moves are a Baggy legend. Start by abseiling, or down climbing, the descent ridge to a small ledge about 12m above the base of the zawn. Opposite is a small flat downward pointing spike that touches the edge of the overhanging zawn wall.
1) 4c, 20m. Not a pitch for the short! Fall across the zawn to reach the spike and pull across on good holds. Move steeply up to the edge of the slab and pull around onto it. Move right and slightly upwards to a peg before traversing 7m right, either high or low, to a stance on a small sloping red/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 4b, 34m. Reverse the traverse back left to the peg, and climb up above it heading for a square-cut flake. Before reaching the flake, move leftwards on the best rock and then take the cleanest line above with care to the top'. © Rockfax

Dave Johnston, Ben Wintringham 19/Oct/1969.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Kernow , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs for a Northerner , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

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User Date Notes
RichPacker 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Rock to place cam for the chasm crossing is wobbly, advice setting up an anchor for belayer on the first pitch. Found getting onto the slab harder than the crossing
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βeta: Rock to place cam for the chasm crossing is wobbly, advice setting up an anchor for belayer on the first pitch. Found getting onto the slab harder than the crossing
ssutton 22 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Belay stake is near the foot of the pile of rocks, buried in a patch of campion.
βeta?
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βeta: Belay stake is near the foot of the pile of rocks, buried in a patch of campion.
Bruise Apprentice 29 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The "old thread" on P2 no longer exists.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The "old thread" on P2 no longer exists.
phil456 11 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2, is close to 43m than 34m stated here. The belay at the top is difficult to find, see picture

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Votes cast 100
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 96
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eclipse

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Lundy)

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