UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

60m. Very much an eliminate but good climbing throughout. Climb the face between Long Rock Eliminate and Right Hand Eliminate with thin moves to gain the 'hole' on Sexilegs. Move up to the voerlap above and pull through at a slim, downward-pointing fang onto the face above -sketchy - at a faint crack. Continue direct up this, easing slowly until vegetation forces you left into the finale of Long Rock Eliminate.

Gary Gibson, solo 12/Jul/2010.

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Route of Interest
Redspeed

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lundy)

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