Rockfax Description
Lots of great climbing on the first pitch. Start at the left end of the low overhang at the base of the slab, 8m right of the arete.
1) 5b, 23m. Move through the overhang at a notch and climb the widest of the thin cracks to a thin horizontal break. Go left along this to the base of a right-facing corner and climb it to an overlap. Move left to a flake and take this until it is possible to move left once again across the main overlap with difficulty. Down climb leftwards to the stance of Midnight Cowboy.
2) 4c, 34m. Move up rightwards above the overlap to a smaller overlap. Climb the thin diagonal crack leftwards to broken ground and finish up the cleanest line with care. Midnight Cowboy or Kinkyboots give a better more stable finish. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Culm/Devon options , Routes for MCI
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holwell Quarry)