Rockfax Description
The finest route on the The Promontory following the mid-height diagonal overlap via sustained and intricate climbing. If the tide is in the main pitch can be gained using the excellent first pitch of Kinkyboots. Start 4m right of the arete at the base of the slab.
1) 4c, 19m. Climb up left easily to a thin crack just left of a narrow corner. Follow the cracks to a small, sloping stance on a reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and right, above the overlap, for 3m and then make a tricky move back down right to good holds beneath it. Traverse right to a small flake on the slab before moving up to and following the overlap right until it breaks horizontally right. Climb the crack for 4m to a small stance. Belay on good wires.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the crack until vegetated ground is reached. Pick a way up this with care. Belay on a stake if in place or walk back over the broad ridge and belay on the friction of the rope on the grass (which is considerable) as there are no other belays. © Rockfax


Kernow, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Baggy point road to ruins HVS, South West VDiff-HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, University of Exeter must tick's, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Culm Along, Starred routes S-E2, North Devon


User Date Notes
evhall 23 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first
Show beta
βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first
Iain Weymouth 6 May Show βeta
βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top
Show beta
βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 89
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 84
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Kinky Cowboy

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Baggy Point)
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