UKC

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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
The finest route on the The Promontory that follows the mid-height diagonal overlap via sustained and intricate climbing. Start 4m right of the arete at the base of the slab.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb up left easily to a thin crack just left of a narrow corner. Follow the cracks to a small, sloping stance on a red/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and right, above the overlap, for 3m and then make a tricky move back down right to good holds beneath it. Traverse right to a small flake on the slab before moving up to and following the overlap right until it breaks horizontally right. Climb the crack for 4m to a small stance. Belay on good wires.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the crack until vegetated ground is reached. Pick a way up this with care. Belay on a stake. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Kernow , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , HS-HVS adventures , Culm/Devon options , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Routes for MCI

Feedback

User Date Notes
evhall 23 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first
βeta?
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βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first
Iain Weymouth 6 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top
βeta?
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βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 95
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 90
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Formula One

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)

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