Rockfax Description
The finest route on the The Promontory that follows the mid-height diagonal overlap via sustained and intricate climbing. Start 4m right of the arete at the base of the slab.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb up left easily to a thin crack just left of a narrow corner. Follow the cracks to a small, sloping stance on a red/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and right, above the overlap, for 3m and then make a tricky move back down right to good holds beneath it. Traverse right to a small flake on the slab before moving up to and following the overlap right until it breaks horizontally right. Climb the crack for 4m to a small stance. Belay on good wires.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the crack until vegetated ground is reached. Pick a way up this with care. Belay on a stake. © Rockfax
Kernow , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
User | Date | Notes | ||
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evhall | 23 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first | βeta? | |
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βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first |
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Iain Weymouth | 6 May, 2021 |
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βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)