Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
The finest route on the The Promontory that follows the mid-height diagonal overlap via sustained and intricate climbing. Start 4m right of the arete at the base of the slab.
1) 4c, 18m. Climb up left easily to a thin crack just left of a narrow corner. Follow the cracks to a small, sloping stance on a red/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and right, above the overlap, for 3m and then make a tricky move back down right to good holds beneath it. Traverse right to a small flake on the slab before moving up to and following the overlap right until it breaks horizontally right. Climb the crack for 4m to a small stance. Belay on good wires.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the crack until vegetated ground is reached. Pick a way up this with care. Belay on a stake. © Rockfax
Kernow , Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , South West VDiff-HVS , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , HS-HVS adventures , Culm/Devon options , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do! , Routes for MCI
User | Date | Notes | ||
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evhall | 23 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first | βeta? | |
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βeta: Trust your feet!.. On p2 the second needs to be more confident than the first |
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Iain Weymouth | 6 May, 2021 |
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βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 bomber stakes at the top |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Lundy)