UKC

Rockfax Description
Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of Perception at a narrow corner that leads to the overhang.
Climb the narrow corner easily to the overhangs. Step right to a very slim corner and make a perplexing move to a big pocket up on the right just above the overhang. Stand in the pocket and reach a left-leaning break above that is followed to a point where it is possible to access a line of weakness running back rightwards to the top. If the upper wall is vegetated, move left to ledges at the end of the left-leaning break and scramble up the ridge to the belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Culm/Devon options

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 8 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Beware the line in the CC Culm and Baggy guide is wrong after the big pocket. It shows the route going straight up through unprotected hard finger flakes from the start of the left-diagonal crack ending at the upper right-diagonal exit flake ramp. The Rockfax is correct here and shows you following the left diagonal all the way eventually to the exit flake ramp.
βeta?
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βeta: Beware the line in the CC Culm and Baggy guide is wrong after the big pocket. It shows the route going straight up through unprotected hard finger flakes from the start of the left-diagonal crack ending at the upper right-diagonal exit flake ramp. The Rockfax is correct here and shows you following the left diagonal all the way eventually to the exit flake ramp.
badgerjockey 8 Sep, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Upper flake ramp (last third/quarter of the climb) is currently very vegetated and gives very bold but mostly easy climbing over very hollow gravestone flakes especially near the top. They all reverberate when knocked and won’t all be around forever. They took my weight today but they and I didn’t seem happy about it. One good RP in compact rock but otherwise you’re sticking gear behind semi detached flakes. Best do the alternative leftward finish as suggested in Rockfax as all the good climbing is over by this point.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Upper flake ramp (last third/quarter of the climb) is currently very vegetated and gives very bold but mostly easy climbing over very hollow gravestone flakes especially near the top. They all reverberate when knocked and won’t all be around forever. They took my weight today but they and I didn’t seem happy about it. One good RP in compact rock but otherwise you’re sticking gear behind semi detached flakes. Best do the alternative leftward finish as suggested in Rockfax as all the good climbing is over by this point.
jimbonfire 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great moves to the pocket, quite spicy immediately after, shame it’s all over once on the flakes system.
βeta?
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βeta: Great moves to the pocket, quite spicy immediately after, shame it’s all over once on the flakes system.
blahblahblah 22 Aug, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: a couple of hard moves traversing under the overlap and to get over it ... nice route though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a couple of hard moves traversing under the overlap and to get over it ... nice route though

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 59
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mega Quark

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holwell Quarry)

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