Rockfax Description
Intriguing moves and good protection ensure the popularity of this pitch. Start 8m left of the full-height corner of Doors of Perception at a narrow corner that leads to the overhang.
Climb the narrow corner easily to the overhangs. Step right to a very slim corner and make a perplexing move to a big pocket up on the right just above the overhang. Stand in the pocket and reach a left-leaning break above that is followed to a point where it is possible to access a line of weakness running back rightwards to the top. If the upper wall is vegetated, move left to ledges at the end of the left-leaning break and scramble up the ridge to the belay. © Rockfax
West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Baggy point road to ruins HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Culm/Devon options
User | Date | Notes | ||
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badgerjockey | 8 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Beware the line in the CC Culm and Baggy guide is wrong after the big pocket. It shows the route going straight up through unprotected hard finger flakes from the start of the left-diagonal crack ending at the upper right-diagonal exit flake ramp. The Rockfax is correct here and shows you following the left diagonal all the way eventually to the exit flake ramp. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beware the line in the CC Culm and Baggy guide is wrong after the big pocket. It shows the route going straight up through unprotected hard finger flakes from the start of the left-diagonal crack ending at the upper right-diagonal exit flake ramp. The Rockfax is correct here and shows you following the left diagonal all the way eventually to the exit flake ramp. |
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badgerjockey | 8 Sep, 2024 |
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βeta: Upper flake ramp (last third/quarter of the climb) is currently very vegetated and gives very bold but mostly easy climbing over very hollow gravestone flakes especially near the top. They all reverberate when knocked and won’t all be around forever. They took my weight today but they and I didn’t seem happy about it. One good RP in compact rock but otherwise you’re sticking gear behind semi detached flakes. Best do the alternative leftward finish as suggested in Rockfax as all the good climbing is over by this point. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Upper flake ramp (last third/quarter of the climb) is currently very vegetated and gives very bold but mostly easy climbing over very hollow gravestone flakes especially near the top. They all reverberate when knocked and won’t all be around forever. They took my weight today but they and I didn’t seem happy about it. One good RP in compact rock but otherwise you’re sticking gear behind semi detached flakes. Best do the alternative leftward finish as suggested in Rockfax as all the good climbing is over by this point. |
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jimbonfire | 17 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Great moves to the pocket, quite spicy immediately after, shame it’s all over once on the flakes system. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great moves to the pocket, quite spicy immediately after, shame it’s all over once on the flakes system. |
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blahblahblah | 22 Aug, 2009 |
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βeta: a couple of hard moves traversing under the overlap and to get over it ... nice route though | βeta? | |
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βeta: a couple of hard moves traversing under the overlap and to get over it ... nice route though |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holwell Quarry)