Restricted Access
Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.
There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.
Rockfax Description
A nicely sustained climb that is worth seeking out. Start at the diagonal crack as for Sting. From the start of the diagonal crack, take a direct line up the slab via a thinner crack-line to the overhangs. Pull through the overhangs and take the sustained crack in the slab above to clean ledges. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The direct line above Sting. Thin crack - break in the overlap - think crack.
P O'Sullivan & B Rossiter 21/Jan/1979.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ClimbingAlex | 15 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth 2*, well protected with small but spaced gear above the overhang. A bit dirty at the top - could do with some more traffic. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth 2*, well protected with small but spaced gear above the overhang. A bit dirty at the top - could do with some more traffic. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Baggy Point
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The Inner Sanctuary: Wringapeak to Hedddons mouth
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)