UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
petecallaghan 14 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Thinly protected but good climbing. The stains of old pegs remain at the point described as the belay at the top of P1, and a poor nut belay can be found on a narrow ledge about 2m higher
Show beta
βeta: Thinly protected but good climbing. The stains of old pegs remain at the point described as the belay at the top of P1, and a poor nut belay can be found on a narrow ledge about 2m higher

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 3
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Last Exit to Torquay

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)

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