Rockfax Description
The finest route on the The Promontory following the mid-height diagonal overlap via sustained and intricate climbing. If the tide is in the main pitch can be gained using the excellent first pitch of Kinkyboots. Start 4m right of the arete at the base of the slab.
1) 4c, 19m. Climb up left easily to a thin crack just left of a narrow corner. Follow the cracks to a small, sloping stance on a reddy/brown ledge. Belay on good wires.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up and right, above the overlap, for 3m and then make a tricky move back down right to good holds beneath it. Traverse right to a small flake on the slab before moving up to and following the overlap right until it breaks horizontally right. Climb the crack for 4m to a small stance. Belay on good wires.
3) 4b, 28m. Follow the crack until vegetated ground is reached. Pick a way up this with care. Belay on a stake if in place or walk back over the broad ridge and belay on the friction of the rope on the grass (which is considerable) as there are no other belays. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Kernow, Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Baggy point road to ruins HVS, South West VDiff-HVS, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

Hidden 14/May Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May 2nd
Harry Ellis 14/Apr Lead

Pitches 2&3 in one having started up kinky boots. Delicate but interesting. Not hard one you trust the friction.

JoeCoxson 05/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

P2&3. Fair play to Ollie for doing the crux after my nut popped out, leaving him with a big swing if he came off.

Lizard Ollie 05/Nov/17 AltLd rpt

Took the proper start this time rather than the kinky cowboy variation, Joe took P2&3. Nicer in the light. Had to ab back in for a stuck gold offset in the belay, but I'd do anything for that humble piece of gear

steve_gibbs 01/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
with Ross Davidson
Hidden 01/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
leland stamper 06/Oct/17 AltLd

Led last pitch. Celebrate my 60th in style. Interesting traverse for a second on second pitch.

with BU6330
Hidden 26/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
foobar123 26/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch on a Kinky Cowboy variation. Bricking it on the downclimb due to the suspect gear I'd got in, and nearly fell off at a few points so was very relieved to find the "good holds", but they weren't quite as good as I'd hoped! Remains pretty hard until the belay.

Lady Vee 23/Sep/17 2nd
cdpuk 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Kinky Cowboy variation.

Hidden 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
froglette 23/Sep/17 2nd dog
with JulianB
BarbsMurray 31/Aug/17 2nd
pauldrew 31/Aug/17 Lead

With Kinky Boots start. Excellent route if a bit vegetated at the top.

felixwilkins 29/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Kinky Cowboy variation

hairy51 23/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Benjaminblanc 23/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Joe Andrews, hairy51
10029759 23/Jul/17 2nd
10029759 23/Jul/17 2nd
joeramsay 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Kinky cowboy. Sophie was too short to bridge the fall across the zawn, the sucker. Mega psychological second pitch, and super runout grass at the end - fun of the type 2-est kind. Mega gnarly

hetty.key 15/Jul/17 2nd
sophie wilson 15/Jul/17 2nd

Ran together with first pitch of kinky boots, bold for both the lead and the second on the second pitch

jhobbs 14/Jul/17 2nd
with Pete Belfield
R0BJ0N 07/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Dan Racey
rachelpearce01 16/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
George_Surf 16/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Via kinkyboots. I led traverse. Difficult downclimb and very thin traversing at times. Not stacks of gear. Hanging belay. Rachel took the next pitch up the short crack and through the vegetation to loose top out. Bit scary

chrissloan84 29/May/17 2nd O/S
with paul
Hidden 25/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/17 2nd
Laurence Mitchell 20/May/17 AltLd
Ben Seeley 20/May/17 AltLd O/S
kieraneason 14/May/17 AltLd O/S

Did the crux 3x in order to get gear back as lead had nut key...

AdventureMark 14/May/17 AltLd β
with Kieran Eason
Hidden 09/May/17 Lead O/S
Jack Porteous 30/Apr/17 -
ClimbingAlex 29/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Did the Kinky Cowboy variation. Strung P2+3 together on 50m ropes and just had enough to reach the belay. Faffed about on the crux of P2 but eventually did it. P3 was surprisingly solid, with spaced but good gear. What a climb!

with Dabbott
sinbad 15/Apr/17 AltLd

I led first and 3rd pitches - great. Seconding middle pitch exciting stepping down - especially when runner drops out....!

with Pete
Pete Burgess 15/Apr/17 AltLd
with simon tong
Hidden 25/Mar/17 Lead dnf
fuzzysheep01 12/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2-3. One of the best HVSs I've done. 80m of glorious rock, good protection on crux pitch, amazing positions. Just awesome. Managed to fiddle in some runners to make the downclimb fairly safe for second - not as serious as we expected. Even the top pitch was quality - solid rock and avoidable veg with gear where you want it.

MusicalMountaineer 12/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Amazing. Shat myself on the first pitch, felt a bit necky, but brilliant moves. Mega lead by Joe on the second pitch, loved the moves, crux was more secure than I had believed it would be. Even the grassy third pitch is enjoyable! Seriously brilliant route.

Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
kyaizawa 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S

Amazing route done in a rare good weather window :) Ran p1 and p2 together; drag wasn't too much of an issue on halves. The downclimb crux was definitely pretty spicy and felt pretty stiff and insecure!!

Hidden 05/Dec/16 Lead O/S
J_Spooner 05/Dec/16 2nd
Adam Hill 25/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
Hidden 01/Nov/16 2nd
Lizard Ollie 30/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Henry and I set off on the Kinky Cowboy, I led P1 and after crawling through another teams belay I was surprised to see the radiant smile of Wendy at the belay ledge as Jake was getting ready to start. Henry took on P2 with Jake and Wendy belaying below me. Daylight saving time causing nothing but trouble again quickly resulted in the route name becoming more than appropriate. Upon approaching the second belay, Jake took a rodeo-whip down the slab. I then led out P3 by headtorch while Jake approached the belay. I then belayed a headtorch-less Henry up the third pitch followed by Jake on the other half rope. After another few abseils all the gear and Wendy were rescued. Stars were nice though.

Hidden 30/Oct/16 Lead dog
Hidden 30/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 30/Oct/16 2nd dnf

Type two fun of a special kind. After arriving at the crag to find Ollie and Henri embroiled in a reasonable amount of faff involving another party on a crowded midnight cowboyesqe belay. Jake and I sat atop the crag in the dusky evening sunlight while passing running commentary on the general chopperness and faff we saw before us. Somehow or other we managed to convince ourselfs to join in. Needless to say it was an interesting climb in which Jake took a massive fall and I got abandoned on the cliff in the dark. 1.5 head torches, two abseils and a lot of Jake prussucing got both teams to the top in surprisingly good spirits.

with Henry H, JakeB., Ollie
Stanners 22/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

With Max dieing in the tent and Sam out surfing it was good to get some climbing in. Led Pitch 2 and we did the kinky boots alternative start. More like E1

with Alex Rhodes
Bristol_Quornstar 22/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3

AndyMorrall 19/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Led last pitch, alt start

Matico 31/Aug/16 TR O/S
Mr Tickle 24/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Led p2 with kinky boots start.

with Gareth
sheelba 20/Jul/16 2nd
with Legs
Legs 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. I have had this on my list for ages. Did the first pitch of kinky boots across the gap which is brilliant. Then the second pitch of Midnight Cowboy with the interesting down climb (harder for the second). We sacrificed a nut and long extended draw as it couldn't be flicked out. The last pitch was a bit of a veg-fest. An all round great adventure in a beautiful location.

with sheelba
JackM92 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Massively overrated route for me. P2 is enjoyable, the downclimb fairly tricky, but with good gear above the leader. P3 is absolutely fine, soid rock and decent holds amongst the grass. The other routes on that slab have horrendous top pitches, this one is quite safe.

Benjaminblanc 09/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Seema
Seema 09/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul/16 AltLd
Côme Berger 26/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Rob slipped off on the very first move of the climb, fell into the water. Epic fail.

with Rob
sinbad 25/Jun/16 Lead
with Pete
Rhys Deane ?/Jun/16 -
J.A.Thomson 24/May/16 AltLd O/S
with jack
Senna 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with ned_85
ned_85 30/Apr/16 AltLd
with Senna
alexm198 23/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & P3 together, drag was quite manageable with some cunning rope work. 5b down climb is quite spicy but it's all there. Shame about the vegetables at the top!

Hidden 23/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Larey 23/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 3 is a great adventure!

with Max Ayrton
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Hidden ??/2016 -
Jelly Mould Surfer 01/Nov/15 AltLd

Pitch 3, but seconding meant doing the 5b down climb without a runner from above...harder than leading it surely

with Mike Thorpe
Hidden 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/15 AltLd
PaulHarris 30/Jul/15 Lead

Self Belay

tom.ben 25/Jul/15 2nd β
timreynolds 25/Jul/15 Lead

P2/3 only. Kinky Cowboy

with Tommasso Benacchio
Jack Porteous 22/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Middle pitch

dbrooks 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

p1 only

dpalmer1961 17/Jul/15 AltLd

with kinky boots start

robgixer 15/Jul/15 AltLd
HowieB ?/Jul/15 Lead
with James, Elliot
Hidden 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Joolz 26/May/15 -

Lead 2. Heather did 1 and 3. Fine day, but the rope kept sticking on the cam under the overlap.

phil64 25/May/15 AltLd O/S

Slabs, foot faggotry!

with Ali Taylor
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
punyarmsgunner ?/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

1st/3rd pitches- bakes lead 2nd (gear sparse...swing potential triggered mild brown trouser moment while seconding)

Mark Kemball 28/Sep/14 AltLd
Kenhard 08/Sep/14 TR O/S

Tough climbing, grassy near the top.

with Andy Watson, unslev
Hidden 08/Sep/14 TR O/S
Stone Muppet 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Thought some ne'er do well was chucking rocks down on us from above, so we shouted at them quite a lot, but it turned out to (maybe) be somebody's ashes. Hmm, awkward. Anyway, a *** weird and crazy HVS. I traversed the quartz rather than downclimbing the crack... downclimbing the crack would take mega slab confidence especially for the 2nd, not sure I'd call it HVS for that option.

with jg
timdi ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Stroppy 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

P2 & 3 only (Kinky Cowboy). Alex led the exciting pitch. I just sat on a lawmower.

RKirke 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Lead first and third pitches this time

with Nick Gregory
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

With excellent Kinkyboots start as high tide. All fairly straightforward apart from the downclimb.

with Becky E
Becky E 16/Aug/14 2nd

High tide start using first pitch of Kinky Boots. Tough downclimbing on pitch 2 - left a wire behind as couldn't hang on and extract it.

ewalker278 27/Jul/14 AltLd
spragglerocks 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led p2, did 1st pitch of kinky boots to start due to tide.

with Matt
andrewmc 27/Jul/14 AltLd β

Dan led pitch 1, Ed led pitch 2, I led pitch 3. Back belayed Dan on second pitch, leaving me with the possible big swing... the crux move (downclimb on pitch 2) is more serious for the second than the leader!

dmaldonado 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, Ed led second, Andy led third

with Ed Walker, andrewmc
Hidden 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Did the Kinky Cowboy start - great pysch challenge. Lead P2.

with David Llewelyn
TimKnight 24/May/14 AltLd

Led P2, slowly

with Dave Marshall, Joemanglerocks
Joemanglerocks 24/May/14 AltLd

Led P1, Tim P2, Dave P3

with Dave Marshall, Tim Knight
Senna 04/May/14 Lead O/S
Doug miller 14/Apr/14 AltLd
with CJoyce
Will Mortimer 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Big Lee 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, which was awesome. It began to rain as Anna started to second the pitch but fortunately this abated. Then more rain as I seconded the third pitch but the climbing was easy enough despite.

with annak
annak 08/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Big Lee
Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Echna 27/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with AndyF
AndyF 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S

The sun goes down rather quickly at Baggy.... 2nd pitch was very loose and hard to protect so pretty much soloed it. just reached the top in pretty much pitch black. Gregor and Rich had to second it in the dark! Probably wont bother with this wall again at baggy as Long rock slab has much more to offer!

with Echna
crispycodd 20/Aug/13 Lead rpt

I led P1 but Dave did not like the look of P2. Tide had come in so we went up P2 of Long Rock Eliminate to the top.

Dptidman 20/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
petegunn 12/Aug/13 AltLd

Good moves across the slab. Started up Kinkyboots

Hidden 10/Aug/13 2nd β
Derek Ryden 24/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Kinky bots start. Second or third time I've done this and I must be missing something - the crux seems very hard for 5b.

with David Coley
peter.ravenscroft27 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lovely climb 2nd pitch beautiful, well protected and quirky moves, shame about the top out

with Fiona Ravenscroft
Andy Moles 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Started by Kinkyboots. Didn't read description and went right then up from the belay on P2 which was fine, plus there's no step down for the second that way.

Kate Edhouse 29/Jun/13 AltLd

Struggled leading pitch 1 so backed off with an incoming tide. Gerwyn led. Pitch 2 is fantastic. Pitch 3 although a little vegetated and loose is still fantastic.

with gerwen
Hidden 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
Dave Rumney 28/May/13 Lead

p1 Kinkyboots

with Tanya Milner
JezzaCat 25/May/13 2nd

With Kinkyboots start

with Richard
Rowena Clare 25/May/13 AltLd
burto 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
with rowena, hertha
will moy 19/May/13 AltLd O/S

p1 of kinky boots. super safe on the hard down climb for leader. a confident second is important

with paul taylor
paultaylor 18/May/13 AltLd O/S

P1 of kinky boots tide was in.

ian storey 11/May/13 AltLd O/S
with rob sutton
iccy 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 05/May/13 AltLd

Awesome route with Kinky Boots start. Second pitch was Brilliant.

rockpool 05/May/13 AltLd

due to tide we opted for the kinky boots start , led pitch 2, a fanstic traverse which never fails to bring a big smile to ones face. a great days climbing

tim.fairhall 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Matt
Bruce S 29/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 09/Mar/13 Lead dnf

P1 only, harder than I expected, not well practiced in slabby confidence smearing. Finished up LRE

with Vienna
davenev 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Mr Tickle 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2, great first 2 pitches. Thought you could protect the second well on the step down.

with davenev
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 -
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
scott titt ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 12/Sep/12 AltLd

With the Kinky Boots start

benkelsey 05/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

anna rinsed KB start then I finished in one pitch. fantastic weather

with Anna
alastairbegley 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

approached first belay via Kinkyboots, I lead P2, was great fun

mattkemp70 ?/Sep/12 AltLd

With kinky boots start

with Westy
Stuart William 16/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 - Me P2 - Matt P3 - Me

with Matt Reynolds
ripper 12/Aug/12 AltLd
jon_gill1 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

i did the first pitch which as the tide was in was a variation of kinky boots!climbed to the wrong peg and traversed high,above peeping tom so potentially a new route!felt about 5c moves on bugger all gear! John did second fantastic pitch leaving jigi and i to climb risk the huge whipper!great fun!

with jigi, ripper
alexjz 22/Jul/12 AltLd

seconded 2nd pitch, lead 3rd pitch. A real shame about the grassy and loose top out, but the 2nd pitch is amazing.

with Simon Kemper
Andy Chubb 22/Jul/12 AltLd

Took the higher option on pitch 2 which makes the step down for the second pretty dangerous unless you leave a high piece of gear and retrieve it later. Quite serious I thought, though luckly not hard

with Chris Mellor
eroica64 22/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P1 and P3. Andy led 5b p3. Pro left and retrieved later to protect my descent on P2. Terrific exhilarating climbing. Let rope down for P2 belay and , at the end of a long day, I yarded up this rather than climb the grass and choss.

with Andy Chubb, Mark Lee
Felix Ottey 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great route. We were attacked by an angry weasle on the top pitch!!!!

Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Steve Woollard 26/May/12 AltLd

Kinkyboots start, lead main pitch.

with Stuart Fox
nickstephens 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 25/May/12 AltLd O/S

Spooner had an old pair of my rock boots that were too small. P1- his lead, tried barefoot, didnt work, chucked the rock boots up and he put his toes in and just about led the rest of the pitch with his feet almost slipping out. P2- my lead. Whilst seconding Spooner thought of tying his rock boots to his ankles with a prusik to stop them falling off. He led the last pitch with his adjustable rock boots. Pretty scary!

with Elliot Spooner
EmilyElouise 20/May/12 2nd dog
Matt Smith 20/May/12 AltLd O/S

Great route. Lead P1 and P3. Seconding P2 was very interesting, potentially with a massive swinging fall. The hidden foothold was gratefully received ! P3 is basically pulling on grass through mud.

with Harri Honan
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead O/S
beds74 08/May/12 -


tobydunford 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Kayan 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 31/Mar/12 2nd O/S

2nd pitch is sooo cool; stepping down takes some balls. I lead the last pitch.

with Kayan
Ian JL ??/2012 Lead O/S
Anna duckett ??/2012 2nd
with Ben Kelsey
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -


halfwaythere 06/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Started with Kinkybootscouldn't do last bit of traverse after the downclimb so downclimbed again for six feet and headed diagonally up to edge of overhang where it turns vertical; just got a big cam under the overhang- phew - first bit of gear for about twenty feet. Sling fell off the loose-feeling flake of rock that you stand on as you contemplate the last part of the traverse. You need to stuff something in behind to stop this.

cem 24/Sep/11 2nd rpt

Main pitch only, after p1 of Kinky Boots. Paul over did it with the traversing & ended up in the choss of the Grand Vizier's Garden Party, at which point top ropes were gratefully received. For added spice we had a fine drizzle + the threat of a heavy downpour

Hidden 24/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
jon bradley 14/Aug/11 AltLd rpt

KB start. Class route, shame about the last pitch.

with Tim Styles
timstyles 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 (Kinkyboots) and P3. Couldn't find much gear in the top section, but rock/turf was OK at 4b.

stujamo 09/Aug/11 2nd
with K.Ansell
staceyjg 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Went off route and ended up climbing second pitch of Sexilegs insteaed!

minaturechris 02/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Really nice first pitch. Could not see the moves to do the traverse so finished up sexy legs instead (which barely had any gear on it).

nicolat ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with James Mitchell
nicolat ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with James Mitchell
Lasma 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Really scary traverse for an HVS, pitch 3 chossy and unpleasant! Was glad to top out untouched!

with sophiecb
sophiecb 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Scorchio weather. Led pitches one and three. Some nice 'fingery' moves on slabbiness. Pitch two was scary for us both - wouldn't have wanted to have taken a fall seconding this. This was 5b in Rockfax.. Chossy finish.

with Lasma
climbingxcat 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Rob led first pitch of Midnight Cowboy, but due to time constraints finished up Long Rock Eliminate!

with Rob, Brian
Jonathan Hall 26/Jun/11 Lead

With Kinky start

disturbed_one51 26/Jun/11 AltLd

With the Kinkyboots start. Beautiful climbing on perfect rock until the end pitch of choss.

with Tamati
Hidden 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Brannock 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Led ist two pitches, Dan Boast led 3rd. Wonderful slab.

Em66 05/Jun/11 AltLd
with Freg1
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
1202alarm 03/May/11 -
david morse 03/May/11 AltLd O/S

With Kinkyboots start

with lole
Hidden ?/May/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
kdalzell 25/Apr/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 25/Apr/11 Lead
andy dunn 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

P2 & 3 after Kinkyboots start

with Alan
ruaidh 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Mike, I promise I'll lead the next one *8P (does it count if I slip on a flower?)

with msoldn
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
petellis 23/Apr/11 2nd dog

P2 & 3. Pulled on gear through the drop-down move.

with jkarran
Hidden 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 21/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. P2 probably worse for second, gnarly swing potential :-)

_m.cox_ 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ali Burleigh
Kevster 26/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead
Kris suriyo 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S
jezb1 30/Jan/11 AltLd

Delicate middle for hands but great feet.

Graham Atkins 09/Jan/11 Lead
with will boxen
Hidden 01/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
billb ?/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Graham A
paddymitton ??/2011 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ??/2011 -
CptRicActiv ??/2011 Lead β
The Ivanator 07/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

I led P1 (Kinkyboots start) and P3. First pitch fun, second delicate, third vegetated. A great route.

Haytor_Haggis 07/Nov/10 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Steve Price
Steve Woollard 22/Oct/10 AltLd

Led P2, Sexilegs is better

with Lou Reynolds
brian watson 17/Oct/10 AltLd rpt

did the kinky boots access

with neil weymouth
Abi Chard 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
alek 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 24/Sep/10 AltLd

Led the middle (crux) pitch

with Vic
BeccaSnowden 16/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

With Kinkyboots start. Followed first pitch - loved it - i'm 5'2 ish and 'just' managed the fall over move on second (got the flat holds then stretched out for the jug and swung over!). Led all the hard stuff on pitch 2 then it started raining so made a belay a few metres before the real stance. Followed rest of p2 and p3. Hard downclimbing moves on second pitch - really glad I didn't have to second them !

thomasadixon 16/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

First and third pitch, great route shame it poured down while we were on the second...dried up mostly though by the time I moved.

Alex T (RAFMA) 03/Sep/10 2nd
with Rimon
arandall ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

fantastic, with the KB start.. looks bloody miles across the zawn but not too bad once committed.

with remus
Hidden 17/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
lrandall 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Climbed at high tide so started with the first pitch of Kinky Boots (a combination I'm told is refered to as Kinky Cowboy). Lead the 1st and 3rd pitch. 5a isn't very generous for the crux pitch - I would say the new Rockfax guide, which gives it 5b, is closer to the mark.

Hidden ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 26/Jul/10 AltLd

Led pitches 1 & 3

with tebs
tebs 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2

Hidden ?/Jul/10 -
Richard Morgan 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Lovely day and nice climb, marred slightly by painfully tight shoes.

Rob84 26/Jun/10 AltLd

With Kinkyboots start - couldn't do the crux step down on p2 so pendulumed off a wire.

with Chris James
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
stuart34 26/Jun/10 2nd
Ybot Htulk ?/Jun/10 AltLd
with Richard
Julesthe1st 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Paul Wolf
iantoday 08/May/10 2nd

High tide had to make the Kinky Boots

ecowaller 08/May/10 Lead

Many times before but a nice day all the same

Hidden 02/May/10 AltLd O/S
culmclimberRob 22/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

i lead p1 and p3 beach start!!2nd p2 and lead p3 in complete darkness only moonlight as my light was good climbed it true didnt use a rope line for 3rd pitch

with hamish
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 09/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Mike W ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
daviesxxx ?/Jan/10 Lead
steveleahy ?/Jan/10 2nd
steveleahy ?/Jan/10 2nd
MGrock ??/2010 -
daviesxxx ??/2010 Lead
twright180 25/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Luke Homatron
Homes 25/Oct/09 AltLd
with Thom W
Ybot Htulk ?/Oct/09 Lead
with Sonya
Andrew1 20/Sep/09 Lead
with Trys Negus
surfbish 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Good climb, first pitch much better than the Kinkyboots start, more sustained but with ace gear.

with Tom
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with RAFMA
Hidden 11/Jun/09 Lead
deklan 03/May/09 AltLd

led traverse pitch.

with luke
Owain Llewelyn 01/May/09 Lead
with Dad
luke13 ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Dec
manwithacam 26/Apr/09 AltLd

The downclimb section is scary, especially for the second!

with Martin M
Hidden 07/Jan/09 2nd O/S
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
Hidden 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S
Reeges 07/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

With Kinky Boots start. Led Pitch 1 and 3. Great route on really good rock.

Ybot Htulk ?/Dec/08 AltLd
with Ben
Julia Chatterton 12/Oct/08 2nd

Brilliant route, gorgeous day, downclimbing the thin crack on p2 was v scary as a second, but great moves

with Will
Hidden ?/Oct/08 Lead
John Brayshaw 29/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with erica
erica 29/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitches. Started from boulder beach.

Hidden 08/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 08/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Led P2. Kinky boots start

with long
babymoac 26/Jul/08 AltLd
with cem
cem 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/08 2nd
Bob M 23/Jul/08 Lead

By Kinkyboots start (which Norman led)

Tim W 25/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Bob Peters ??/2008 -
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Ybot Htulk ?/Nov/07 AltLd
with Kristoffer
andysroom ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
buddha1369 21/Oct/07 2nd O/S

Kinky boots start

Dan Shirley 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/07 Lead O/S
kristofferalpsjo ?/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Alternative start, from Kinky Boots (falling over the zawn)

with Toby Kluth
blahblahblah 08/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch - Pascal led 2nd pitch

with Anna Rattray + Pascal Guilloux
maybe_si 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with charlie
brian watson ?/Sep/07 -
Lev 26/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Did the first pitch of Kinkyboots again because the tide was in.

with Emma
Hidden 26/Aug/07 AltLd dog
Hidden 19/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/07 AltLd
kenneM ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Bobby Hewitt
John Kettle ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 14/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch (normal start). 2nd pitch clearly the hardest but I walked it for some reason! Brilliant route.

with Christian
Hidden 07/Jul/07 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jul/07 Lead
Owen W-G 01/Jun/07 Lead O/S

With KB start. Sort of OS ascent. I aborted a previous attempt 3ys prior by reversing half the main pitch. Thought I went similarly offroute this time as well as last. The guidebook description didn't sound very familiar (downclimb thin crack/step to hidden foothold?!), but I think that is something to do with the linkup between KB and MC.

with Simon Denison
eley1 ?/Jun/07 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Misha 28/May/07 Lead O/S

Good fun falling across the zawn and questing out across the slab. With Sylvain.

John Lisle ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
AJH 14/Oct/06 Lead

Kinkyboots start

with Richard
Hidden 29/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
sgl 29/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Konnie
mikelaing ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
cas54321 ?/Aug/06 2nd
Oliver Sherman 09/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Quite a full-on second pitch for the second - headed for a big swing if not careful. Nice line, probably the best thing going on Long Rock, except the first move of Kinky Boots, perhaps.

with Alex Catterall, Kate Cheyne
featuresforfeet 08/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
Ed Babs ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Kate
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Brian Rodgers ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Ian McKee
AJM ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

Did this with the Kinkyboots start. One of my favourite routes of 2005.

with stuartf
rockpool ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S

led p1 from boulder beach and p3...p2 well led by pol, part of a great days climbing:-)sun all day.

with pol
Ben1983 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
migs493 13/Jan/05 Lead O/S

First pitch

Flashy ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/04 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 14/Aug/04 2nd O/S

used tension off the fixed nut for the down-climbing section (back-rope)

max_chan 18/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Sime64
Sime64 18/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 & 3. Matt L P2

rockjedi12345 ??/2004 AltLd O/S

Interesting climb with four people...

with Steve, nigel phil
Mark Collins 12/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
with Mark Watson
goi.ashmore 28/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with James Tracey
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
Hidden ?/Apr/03 AltLd
Rob Kinsey ??/2003 -
with Sofie
rockjedi12345 ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with MGrock
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/01 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jul/01 Lead O/S
jmhood ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Wayne Miller
Lepista 03/Sep/00 Lead

With Gill & Nigel. Three on this climb was... interesting!

Hidden 01/Jul/00 Lead O/S
rockjedi12345 ?/May/00 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Apr/00 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden 31/Jul/99 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/98 AltLd
rurp 01/Jun/98 2nd O/S
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
plain kitten ?/Oct/97 Lead


Adrian Daniels 05/Jul/97 AltLd
Steve Webster 05/Jul/97 AltLd
AndySL 06/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
with Mark
andy_pemberton ??/1997 AltLd
leadmat ??/1997 Lead
with Graham Fleury
PaulTanton 27/May/96 Lead O/S
colin milton 19/Aug/95 AltLd
with eric milton
Phil West ?/Aug/95 Lead dnf
with Steve Wild & jimmy Turner
tracyclimber 16/Jul/95 2nd

p1:5a - 2nd; p2:5a - 2nd; p3:4b - led

Didymus 10/Jul/95 AltLd O/S

Led Kinkyboots start & p3

with Marcus
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/94 Lead O/S
tompercy 20/Nov/93 AltLd
with Tom Brunt
Rob Davies 28/Aug/93 Lead
with Roy Lindsay
GuyC 08/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

Started on Kinky Boots Pitch 1 (Clare led)

with Jon Bell, Clare
adi bryant ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
with Haf
Hidden 20/Mar/93 Lead
sdht ??/1993 -
Hidden 06/Aug/92 -
climbingrichard 07/Jul/92 Lead O/S

1st HVS lead

auld al ?/Apr/92 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Feb/92 AltLd
with Giles
nai ?/Feb/92 AltLd
with Roger Devy
Tim M ??/1992 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
tlr 19/Oct/91 AltLd
andrew300169 19/Oct/91 AltLd O/S
with Tim
whispering nic 18/Aug/91 Lead
with Graham Iles
MoWalker3 18/Aug/91 -
with Joe
Andy Say 25/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden 11/Mar/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/90 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1990 Lead
with Therry Cooper
Derek Ryden 26/Aug/89 AltLd O/S

Kinky Cowboy

with Adam Harvey
Hidden 05/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden ??/1988 2nd O/S
michael burrows 27/Aug/87 AltLd O/S
with ian nettleton
Tom V 16/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
Andy Chubb 12/Jul/87 AltLd
with Geoff Barker
Hidden ?/Apr/87 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 12/Oct/86 Lead
with Bryn Roberts
Simon cook ?/Aug/86 -

Numerous ascents. Really like the route

Hidden 28/Jun/86 -
mikej 18/Sep/85 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 10/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jan/85 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Oct/84 Lead O/S
UKB and BMC Shark 29/Jul/84 Lead

With Kinky Boots start - brilliant

with Bruce Woodley
charlesmfrench 14/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Richard Weller 12/May/84 AltLd

Did first pitch of Kinkboots

with Rory O'Connor
TonyF 01/May/84 Lead O/S
with Dar, Ian Birkinshaw
Andy Edgar ??/1984 Lead O/S
Greg Cunningham ??/1984 Lead
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
John Marsland ?/Jun/83 -
Ena ?/Jun/83 AltLd
tapley 04/Oct/82 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
RichardMc 05/Sep/81 AltLd
with Ann Tweddle, Harry Woodbridge
The Reaper 22/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
Hammy 19/Aug/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
Martin Bennett 21/Jul/80 -
with JD
Andy Chubb 21/Jun/80 -
with Andy Roberts
mark-abz 09/Jun/80 AltLd
with Rob S
Chris Terrey ?/Apr/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Brian Wilderspin 16/Mar/80 AltLd O/S
with John Hosie
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
stuartberg 31/Dec/79 AltLd O/S
jon 13/Aug/79 Lead
with Elaine
duncan ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
Mike C 06/May/79 Lead

First pitch, finishing up Kinky Boots.

with John Fowler
Ken Taylor 17/Apr/79 AltLd O/S
with Andy Bond
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/77 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/77 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1976 -
Dave Musgrove 29/May/72 AltLd
with Speedy Smith
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 75
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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