UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
A good little pitch. Start 9m left of the full-height corner of Doors of Perception at the base of a diagonal crack that cuts across the slab beneath the overhangs. Follow the well defined crack leftwards to meet a thinner vertical crack. Move up this and through the overhang to reach a short wall and the top. © Rockfax

A D Baker, D Edwards 27/Mar/1970.

Ticklists

Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

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User Date Notes
blahblahblah 14 Sep, 2008 Show βeta
βeta: Good route - deserves a star
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βeta: Good route - deserves a star

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 9
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Eclipse

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Lundy)

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