UKC

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Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

Rockfax Description
The right-hand corner of the slab is a great line and very popular. Take the corner all the way with plentiful protection and some vegetation as height is gained. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
tim_western112 14 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: An expensive climb... Wild Country Friend 0.5 stuck about 1/4 way up the corner. Please message me at timgwestern@gmail.com if you manage to get it out! Thanks
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βeta: An expensive climb... Wild Country Friend 0.5 stuck about 1/4 way up the corner. Please message me at timgwestern@gmail.com if you manage to get it out! Thanks
JimOakleyAdventures 24 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some loose rocks on the right wall that we threw down to make safe - no one else on the crag.
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βeta: Great route with some loose rocks on the right wall that we threw down to make safe - no one else on the crag.
jimbonfire 17 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyable
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βeta: Really enjoyable
Christabel Goode 17 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some loose holds in the top half
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βeta: Some loose holds in the top half
Snyggapa 10 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly not the best idea to climb on the first dry day after a week of rain when the sun hasn\'t got it yet. No friction for feet at all on the slab making it a more adventurous layback crack jam.
βeta?
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βeta: Possibly not the best idea to climb on the first dry day after a week of rain when the sun hasn't got it yet. No friction for feet at all on the slab making it a more adventurous layback crack jam.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Baggy Point

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 69
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Inkerman Groove

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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