UKC

Restricted Access

TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow the approach instructions above - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS

** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very accommodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **

15m. Start just to the right of Heugh and Cry, a powerful,bouldery sequence leads past the undercuts to an easier upper wall.

FA. Mark Garthwaite 03/Oct/2021.

Ticklists

French 7a-7b+ near Edinburgh

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fraser 31 Jul Show βeta
βeta: 30.07.25: The very loose hold just below the (now) 3rd bolt has been re-glued. Hopefully it'll last but I'm not 100% sure it will.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 30.07.25: The very loose hold just below the (now) 3rd bolt has been re-glued. Hopefully it'll last but I'm not 100% sure it will.
Kieran James Cunningham 29 Jul, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: New low bolt added to prevent rope interference with genitalia if falling at original second bolt. You’re welcome.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: New low bolt added to prevent rope interference with genitalia if falling at original second bolt. You’re welcome.
rjbrady 27 Apr, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Just wish there was more of the beginning !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just wish there was more of the beginning !
Kieran James Cunningham 13 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First and third bolt tightened 13/07/23.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First and third bolt tightened 13/07/23.
DrGarth 4 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed on the day the gamekeeper informed us that they didn’t want any more climbing until Feb. He was worried about climbers disturbing the pheasants. Loud bangs don’t count apparently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed on the day the gamekeeper informed us that they didn’t want any more climbing until Feb. He was worried about climbers disturbing the pheasants. Loud bangs don’t count apparently.

Logged Ascents

26 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Balgone Heughs

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 2 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Get orf my laaand

Grade: 7b ***
(Balgone Heughs)

Loading Notifications...