Restricted Access
TO PRESERVE ACCESS follow the approach instructions above - DO NOT PARK IN ESTATE FIELD ENTRANCES/GATEWAYS
** There is a voluntary climbing ban during the shooting season 1st Oct - 1st Feb. While this is not legally enforceable under Scottish Land Rights Act (walking is still permitted along the paths), it is strongly encouraged to keep a good relationship with the estate, who are currently very accommodating of the bolting and climbing in the Heughs. **
15m.
Start at the right hand end of the buttress, trend left then step around large block to finish up cleaned ledge to the belay.
The first bolt is placed so as to prevent a joyride out left when cleaning...use it! Tether into your belayer's rope when being lowered to strip the draws and remain so till you're back on the deck. You can then unclip the first draw and avoid abrading your rope.
The first bolt is placed so as to prevent a joyride out left when cleaning...use it! Tether into your belayer's rope when being lowered to strip the draws and remain so till you're back on the deck. You can then unclip the first draw and avoid abrading your rope.
FA. Rab Anderson 21/Aug/2022.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Freggs | 16 May, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: - Loose rocks. Have to avoid certain parts (feet and hands) as the rocks are loose (especially near top) which makes the route a lot harder. Pulled a ~15cm cobble off the rock. - Third to last clip awkward but needed and gives a lot of drag. - Sections of rock in the top section glued back onto the wall. - Top screwgates good but the very top one only reachable on very tip toes (I am 168cm) - Being lowered down is unsafe as the rope can get caught in the groove giving tremendous amounts of drag and slack for the belayer. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: - Loose rocks. Have to avoid certain parts (feet and hands) as the rocks are loose (especially near top) which makes the route a lot harder. Pulled a ~15cm cobble off the rock. - Third to last clip awkward but needed and gives a lot of drag. - Sections of rock in the top section glued back onto the wall. - Top screwgates good but the very top one only reachable on very tip toes (I am 168cm) - Being lowered down is unsafe as the rope can get caught in the groove giving tremendous amounts of drag and slack for the belayer. |
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