UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
Loop along the curving crack then swing right on jams past the arete to finish up Sandy Crack, which some find to be the crux! © Rockfax

FA. Al Austin 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Revenge List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Eastern Grit Jamming , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ULMC Classics , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 10 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: What a fight!!! Sarah fell of the crux 3 times, lowered off then I had a go. Started raining as I went up. Muscled through the crux to the top of the curving crack - was getting a bit wet at this point and slipped. Fortunately bomber gear everywhere. Found getting round the corner the hardest bit until I found a foot hold. Top thrutchy section was awful - not helped by being soaked but still awful in the dry I bet. Look forward to being back in the dry and getting a proper clean lead. Very hard in the grade despite some great jams and underclings!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a fight!!! Sarah fell of the crux 3 times, lowered off then I had a go. Started raining as I went up. Muscled through the crux to the top of the curving crack - was getting a bit wet at this point and slipped. Fortunately bomber gear everywhere. Found getting round the corner the hardest bit until I found a foot hold. Top thrutchy section was awful - not helped by being soaked but still awful in the dry I bet. Look forward to being back in the dry and getting a proper clean lead. Very hard in the grade despite some great jams and underclings!
Cragstrong 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I got my cam stuck in the Curving Crack on the far left on 19/09/20. It is a DMM dragon Cam size 6 (big silver one). If someone manages to remove it and sees this feedback, please return it to me - I would be super grateful! Contact me via cragstrong@googlemail.com. Also note that both chock stones at the end of the route are loose and potentially dangerous if they come free.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I got my cam stuck in the Curving Crack on the far left on 19/09/20. It is a DMM dragon Cam size 6 (big silver one). If someone manages to remove it and sees this feedback, please return it to me - I would be super grateful! Contact me via cragstrong@googlemail.com. Also note that both chock stones at the end of the route are loose and potentially dangerous if they come free.
George Frisby 2 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Top chockstone in crack has broken in two and is very loose, belayers should stand well out the way and they should probably be removed if possible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top chockstone in crack has broken in two and is very loose, belayers should stand well out the way and they should probably be removed if possible.
wilkie14c 4 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Can be scary for your second, use double ropes, but just clip one, then when the second climbs, the rope you never clipped will be above the second at all times to prevent a big swing! should br 2* but the groty finish spoils it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can be scary for your second, use double ropes, but just clip one, then when the second climbs, the rope you never clipped will be above the second at all times to prevent a big swing! should br 2* but the groty finish spoils it!
Nick Smith - Climbers 29 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A great little route, which might be just as commiting to second as it is to lead. Fine hand and fist-jamming opportunties abound!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A great little route, which might be just as commiting to second as it is to lead. Fine hand and fist-jamming opportunties abound!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
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Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 216
High 5a
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Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
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Votes cast 203
Votes cast 180
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ellis's Eliminate

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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