12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the arete on its right. A Direct Start isn't much harder. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Bailey 1983.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List, Hardish grit routes that have good gear but aren't staminafests, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Peak District Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Fiend 2 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it.
βeta?
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βeta: Easy for E3, but seems solid at 6a. The gear in the break is bombproof assuming you place the right stuff, specialist pro is hardly essential. But the move feels quite precarious and unlikely until you actually do it.
Tommy G 8 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: I used a 3/4 wire in the left hand side of the break and an RP in the left slot. I felt that both where bomber and held a fall from the crux well. Good route and a probably a good one to break into the grade.
Jon Greengrass 17 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: so how do you know how bomber they are?
βeta?
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βeta: so how do you know how bomber they are?
Daniel Armitage 15 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s"
βeta?
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βeta: I may have been the deck out subject from Apr 25. used Rp3 and Z3 micro in the break. popped of the mono going for break. I weigh 85 kilo. The RP was totally mashed. I have on sighted other "harder E4s"
Jon Greengrass 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: did you fall on them then?
βeta?
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βeta: did you fall on them then?
goi.ashmore 10 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs.
βeta?
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βeta: Friend Z1 and Z2 are bomber if you have the patience to place them. Better than the RPs.
Jon Read 4 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice to go up the arete all the way, too.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice to go up the arete all the way, too.
Ropeboy 7 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade.
βeta?
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βeta: A bit of a one move wonder. Peenuts work well with the extra tapering side. RP's and Aliens also handy for the crux. If you're happy with the gear it feels quite easy for the grade.
salancaster 18 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though!
βeta?
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βeta: Great, very well protected moves low down. Top would be superb without the other buttress there. Might take some moving though!
Nige M 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe.
βeta?
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βeta: The break before the crux takes lots of RP 3's - I placed 5, which in retrospect made the route fairly safe.
Tyler 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack.
βeta?
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βeta: How hard this is depends on how much you trust the RPs in horizontal breaks, not totally inspiring but there are lots of them. Certainly didn't feel the soft touch the Rockfax graded list suggests. The top arete is disappointingly easy and disappointingly close to the easy crack.

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 85
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lyme Cryme Donkeys

Grade: E4 5c ***
(High Tor)
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