UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Classy. Climb the crack to its top then traverse left past the arete, where a crack and short wall lead to an escape out right. Double ropes are sensible. © Rockfax

FA. Al Austin 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Bamford Edge , 2020/21 Trips , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jesus_C 14 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The block at the end of the traverse has moved over time. Better to avoid
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The block at the end of the traverse has moved over time. Better to avoid
cmsg 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wonderfull route, but draining. Or perhaps I'm just not fit. Can't agree about the direct though. While it seems more obvious and logical, the traditional line is simply spectacular. This route has it all.
derekm 19 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb, do take the direct though and try to stay cool on the final traverse. There's always just enough holds, and what a situation!
Chris the Tall 13 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. Direct start seems more logical and more appealing. Sustained and slightly overhanging - didn't find the hands-free rest so was getting a bit pumped - but the gear is good. Bit reachy in the middle ?
chris sm 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. The direct version seems the logical line - not sure why you'd want to go indirect.
Jon Greengrass 13 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After my partner became exhausted trying the final juggy crack, he lowered off and i climbed the lovely arete, where my partners' high point I found all the good jams in the crack blocked by the gear. Overall I thought it quite stiff for a severe

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 177
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 177
Votes cast 171
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Neb Buttress Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)

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