12m.
Rockfax Description
Precarious climbing, on sloping holds, up the right side of the wall, starting up the short crack/slot and continuing in the same line. Avoid the arete for the full effect. © Rockfax
FA. Mark Davies 1979.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Michael Hood | 15 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: The Rockfax description above says "Avoid the arete for the full effect", but really, if you use the arete then you shouldn't get the tick. The arete of the crack to the right is definitely off route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The Rockfax description above says "Avoid the arete for the full effect", but really, if you use the arete then you shouldn't get the tick. The arete of the crack to the right is definitely off route. |
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| Paul Tomo | 24 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1. |
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| cmsg | 27 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arête, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arête, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say. |
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| Joe Costello | 20 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p. |
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| Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH | 16 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: 3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS. |
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| Joe Costello | 9 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: 3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once! | βeta? | |
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βeta: 3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once! |
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| drcorbasisgod | 7 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer. |
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| chris sm | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Felt more like HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt more like HVS. |
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| stonewall | 2 May, 2005 |
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βeta: My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear. |
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| GeckoGeek | 26 Apr, 2005 |
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βeta: A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade |
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| LakesWinter | 11 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think | βeta? | |
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βeta: Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think |
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| Tyler | 13 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds. |
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Guidebooks for Bamford Edge
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Route of Interest
L'Horla
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Curbar Edge)