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12m.

Rockfax Description
Precarious climbing, on sloping holds, up the right side of the wall, starting up the short crack/slot and continuing in the same line. Avoid the arete for the full effect. © Rockfax

FA. Mark Davies 1979.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Tomo 24 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1.
βeta?
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βeta: I think that the gear you use is just to put your mind at rest, if you don't make that final move and and you slip you will deck, this is a E1 climb, maybe low in the grade but still E1.
cmsg 27 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arĂȘte, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say.
βeta?
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βeta: Let's drop the garbage. It's just really morpho. The route is E1 if you have to do a delicate step up near the top, sans arĂȘte, gearless, to gain the top. If you're tall, and can reach it from one step lower, then it will feel a damn sight easier than that. I was among a small group of climbers of differing shapes and sized who did this, and can confirm what I say.
Joe Costello 20 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p.
βeta?
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βeta: Anyone tested this gear that "will" stop your fall off the only 5a move on this - the very last one? I thought not! Easy E1 5a, No point in comparing it to the walk that is 3PS :p.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 16 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: 3 Pebble Slab has been downgraded to HVS though! This should also be HVS.
Joe Costello 9 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: 3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once!
βeta?
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βeta: 3PS is not a grade harder. Good route, grade exactly right for once!
drcorbasisgod 7 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer.
βeta?
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βeta: This definitely deserves E1. Technically it's fine, and I agree that it's short, but I've done E2s that felt safer.
chris sm 3 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Felt more like HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: Felt more like HVS.
stonewall 2 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear.
βeta?
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βeta: My first e1. Got a number 4 and a number 5 nut in about half height...then nothing. Compared to the HVSs Ive done, i'd say it deserves E1 for the lack of gear.
GeckoGeek 26 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade
βeta?
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βeta: A lovely climb, poorly protected and very delicate with a very tricky move towards the top. Definately an E1 but at the low end or its grade
LakesWinter 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think
βeta?
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βeta: Easy for E1, good run out but all in balance, quite bon je think
Tyler 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds.
βeta?
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βeta: If you don't use the right arete at all then the top move is at least 5a, it's a long stretch off very sloping holds.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 198
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 194
Votes cast 183
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Dead Banana Crack

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)