Restricted Access
A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,
This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too:
- All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
- Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply
- Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat
- No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
- Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
- No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
- No further new routing
Gordon A Jenkin, Matt Ward, Roger Lanchbury 30/Oct/1988.
Ticklists
Orange Spot Lower Wye , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at Ban-Y-Gor Area , Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , Wye Valley Salathe Lite , Wye Valley Sport
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JackRDFC | 3 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Lots of loose rock near the start of the route now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lots of loose rock near the start of the route now. |
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| tehmarks | 29 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: One crucial (right) foothold on the start is seriously wobbly - but I don't think it's actually in danger of coming out in the near future. Would nonetheless recommend that belayer and rope stay to the left. Definitely not 5a if you eliminate the hold. Rest of the route seems pretty sound. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: One crucial (right) foothold on the start is seriously wobbly - but I don't think it's actually in danger of coming out in the near future. Would nonetheless recommend that belayer and rope stay to the left. Definitely not 5a if you eliminate the hold. Rest of the route seems pretty sound. |
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| sparrigan | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Agree with comments that it might be slightly harder than 5a, especially when avoiding loose blocks. But is very well protected throughout. An absolutely excellent climb regardless. Some great moves, one or two even a little thought provoking which feels rare for the grade. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Agree with comments that it might be slightly harder than 5a, especially when avoiding loose blocks. But is very well protected throughout. An absolutely excellent climb regardless. Some great moves, one or two even a little thought provoking which feels rare for the grade. |
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| samxsymonds | 22 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: There\'s a loose hold on the right with an \'X\' on it so avoid that! | βeta? | |
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βeta: There's a loose hold on the right with an 'X' on it so avoid that! |
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| acesoyster | 1 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Rock around the bottom on the right sounded far too hollow for sanity, but if you avoid it the start is much harder than 5a. I would seriously recommend the inexperienced stay well clear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rock around the bottom on the right sounded far too hollow for sanity, but if you avoid it the start is much harder than 5a. I would seriously recommend the inexperienced stay well clear. |
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| WeirdWyrd | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Maybe some rock has fallen off but the end felt abit tougher than 5a | βeta? | |
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βeta: Maybe some rock has fallen off but the end felt abit tougher than 5a |
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| No? Yes! | 9 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose bits at the start | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose bits at the start |
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Logged Ascents
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