UKC

Restricted Access

A review of the previous access agreement with Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust (GWT) has now taken place and the climbable area has been extended,

This extension is only possible due to climbers following the agreed access since 2018 and demonstrating that we are a responsible user group. Needless to say maintaining this extended access depends on future adherence to the below climber's code of conduct too: 

  • All routes left of It’s A Sin on the lower tier and the whole of the upper tier on Main Cliff are permanently restricted to provide a sanctuary area within the reserve.
  • Peregrines have nested on the crag in the past and nesting restrictions may apply 
  • Only use existing paths to prevent damage to sensitive habitat 
  • No removal of trees or branches on the crag or elsewhere within the reserve
  • Take your litter home and pick up any you find at the crag
  • No fires, camping or bivvying anywhere on the GWT’s land
  • No further new routing
23m.

Rockfax Description
It gets its stars for the second half. Head up the wall just left of a shallow hanging corner to a good midway ledge. Steep pulls lead to the roof from where a move right accesses a corner. Immediately traverse the lip of the overhang left on good holds and make a sensational move up onto the wall and easier finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Main Cliff classic.

Gary Gibson 16/Sep/1990.

Ticklists

CoT Wye Valley Mileage #Levelup expansion pack , Recommended 7's , Ban-y-Gor Master , Soft Touches , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , 3 star rated 7's in Wye valley , Bristol area road to 7b , 7As with stars near Bristol , Wye Valley Sport , 2023 , Unfinished businesses

Feedback

User Date Notes
antoneh 7 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Don't veer off to the right before clipping the second bolt from the ledge, leaves too much rope out and risks hitting the ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't veer off to the right before clipping the second bolt from the ledge, leaves too much rope out and risks hitting the ledge.

Logged Ascents

312 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Ban-y-gor

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 174 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Paladin + In the Hands of the Deceiver

Grade: 7a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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