Rockfax Description
A modern moderate classic. Well equipped and good positions. Start 80m right of Autoroute Blanche.
1) 5c, 2) 6a. Descend 15m from the top of pitch.
3) 5b, 4) 5c, 5) 5b, 6) 5c, 7) 5c, 8) 5b. From the top of the pitch, walk 50m up to the top of the gorge and look for a crack with the name of the route at the base (possible to exit here if you want to reduce the overall grade).
9) 5c, 10) 6a+, 11) 5b, 12) 5c. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
At last an easy route, thanks to Raoul. It basically follows the edge of the buttress right of Autoroute Blanche. To get to the start, follow the Autoroute Blanche approach but instead of turning left to the foot of this route, continue up the main Giétroz footpath (this official footpath now follows the climbers' footpath almost to the start of Autoroute as it became more defined than the path's original steep route!) for another 50 or so metres. Keep looking on your left and you'll see reddy/orange spray painted spots and the start of the route just next to the path (the original first pitch, which is now pitch three, is to be found some five minutes further up the path and is useful to bypass slow parties occupying the first two pitches). The second part of the route is reached by a short walk up towards the Gorge secteur of Giétroz.
An amended list of pitch grades looks like this: L1 - 5c, L2 - 5c+, L3 - 5a, L4 - 5c+, L5 - 5b, L6 - 5b, L7 - 5c, L8 - 5b, L9 - 5b, L10 - 6a+, L11 - 5b, L12 - 5c. Take a 50m rope and 12 quickdraws.
Raoul Crettenand Jun/2012.
Cham For Mortals , Alpine Peaks and routes
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Jacktheclimber | 2 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Decent route - ran a lot of it together with some exciting one bolt belaying. We didn’t find the start and joined the route at the third pitch. The What3Words and GPS pin for the location are below to save you walking 40 minutes up the hill like us for no reason! pinks.noun.logic N 46°03..2517’ E 006°56.8496’ Elevation 4161ft | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Decent route - ran a lot of it together with some exciting one bolt belaying. We didn’t find the start and joined the route at the third pitch. The What3Words and GPS pin for the location are below to save you walking 40 minutes up the hill like us for no reason! pinks.noun.logic N 46°03..2517’ E 006°56.8496’ Elevation 4161ft |
||||
adam clarke | 9 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: First 8 pitches very steady, felt like nothing harder than easy 5c. By comparison, pitches 9-12 all felt hard for the grade, with p10 feeling more like 6b/+ due to the glass-like polish (pulled on QD). Possible to walk off at top of p12 and avoid the need for any abseiling - head uphill/right a fair way, looking out for small cairns and red painted spots. Bits of scrambling, fixed chains/rope. Leads over to descend on the Swiss side, ultimately via a good path. Pops out next to bee hives/blocked off tunnel (parking). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First 8 pitches very steady, felt like nothing harder than easy 5c. By comparison, pitches 9-12 all felt hard for the grade, with p10 feeling more like 6b/+ due to the glass-like polish (pulled on QD). Possible to walk off at top of p12 and avoid the need for any abseiling - head uphill/right a fair way, looking out for small cairns and red painted spots. Bits of scrambling, fixed chains/rope. Leads over to descend on the Swiss side, ultimately via a good path. Pops out next to bee hives/blocked off tunnel (parking). |
||||
AndrewB121 | 7 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's quite easy to walk past the start of the route. The route starts to the left of a set of staples and fixed lines, if you see a small cairn on the side of the path you've gone too far. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It's quite easy to walk past the start of the route. The route starts to the left of a set of staples and fixed lines, if you see a small cairn on the side of the path you've gone too far. |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: 6a ***
(Le Séchon)