UKC Logbook - 'Le Fantôme de l'Opéra'

12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The newest route on the wall and one that comes under the category of 'terrain d'adventure' meaning a small rack is needed to supplement the partially-bolted pitches. Some large cams are useful. The belays are bolted.
1) 6a+. Climb a crack then easier ground to belay.
2) 5c. Go straight up then cross right across a grassy ledge to reach the next pitch.
3) 5c. Traverse up and left to another ledge.
4) 6a. Pull through a small roof and follow easier ground above.
5) 6a. Traverse up and left, passing an overlap, and then up and right to a ledge.
6) 6a+. Follow a series of cracks above.
7) 6a. Climb the wall above the belay, passing a large ledge, then go up and left.
8) 5c. A small steep wall leading to a slab. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Piola's new trad route on the main cliff. 12 pitches. 6a+ max, 6a obligatory. Occasional bolts on compact sections, but a trad rack is essential. A full set of C3s and normal cams to #3 is recommended. Wires nice to have, but not necessary. A detailed topo can be found in Piola's new (2016) Aiguilles Rouges 2 guide to the area.

Health warning: the first bolt on P11 (6a+) is a good 10m from the belay. Any gear you find before it could be best described as very marginal. There are several obligatory 6a moves to get to this bolt. Be strongly advised not to lead this pitch unless you consistently onsight at least 6a!

Michel Piola 2016.

Ticklists

Alpine Peaks and routes

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User	Date		Notes
barbora	25 Jul	Show βeta βeta: rockfax has a fairly inadequate description of the start: basically follow the cables on the slabs to the very end and you end up by a corner where a few bolted routes including Le Magicien d’Oz. the start of this route is by an obvious, whiteish layback crack at the bottom of which is a small pebble with a drawing of a cam	βeta?
Show beta βeta: rockfax has a fairly inadequate description of the start: basically follow the cables on the slabs to the very end and you end up by a corner where a few bolted routes including Le Magicien d’Oz. the start of this route is by an obvious, whiteish layback crack at the bottom of which is a small pebble with a drawing of a cam
Gazmataz	17 Jun	Show βeta βeta: Ignore the health warning. I got a red cam and a small blue cam and also a wire in on that pitch before the bolt. Totally laced it up. Could probably have got more in if I'd really hunted. Bring small to medium cams.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Ignore the health warning. I got a red cam and a small blue cam and also a wire in on that pitch before the bolt. Totally laced it up. Could probably have got more in if I'd really hunted. Bring small to medium cams.
TLitchfield	18 Jun, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Pitches 1-3 on the lower slab are worthwhile. Id echo the comments of others that I didn't think any part of the route was wildly bold	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pitches 1-3 on the lower slab are worthwhile. Id echo the comments of others that I didn't think any part of the route was wildly bold
Tim Bevan	20 May, 2024	Show βeta βeta: Large loose block on pitch 4 or 5 (can't remember sorry, think it was 5 though) that's in pole position to remodel your belayer.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Large loose block on pitch 4 or 5 (can't remember sorry, think it was 5 though) that's in pole position to remodel your belayer.
Suncream	29 May, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Despite what the description says, there is a bomber small silver cam placement 2m below the bolt on p11	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Despite what the description says, there is a bomber small silver cam placement 2m below the bolt on p11
mic.snow	5 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: (Starting after the lower slabs) Blue #3 quite handy here and there. Some nice options for wires, but there's usually also a good cam placement nearby as well. I definitely placed a few micro cams, more for fun to try them out, rather than necessity. You don't really need them for the upper part of the route.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: (Starting after the lower slabs) Blue #3 quite handy here and there. Some nice options for wires, but there's usually also a good cam placement nearby as well. I definitely placed a few micro cams, more for fun to try them out, rather than necessity. You don't really need them for the upper part of the route.