23m.
Rockfax Description
A hard upper wall. Climb easily to the mid-height ledge. Step left and climb direct up the wall via a powerful sequence to finish at the lower-off of Buoys Will Be Buoys. © Rockfax
FA. Bob Hickish 31/Aug/2008.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| j_duds | 7 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: On my first go I got my leg caught behind a loop of rope (leading to a bad rope burn), rope was looping left from the ledge clip on Jurassic to first clip on Shape Shifter. Couldn’t find a way to make the rope work with extensions, slings etc. without it looping behind my legs. Ended up climbing Shape Shifter by coming in from the bolts on Buoys will be buoys to the left, this kept the rope well away from the crux moves for me. Could really do with another bolt adding at the ledge height to keep the rope going downwards and away from the leader, as that fall on to a diagonal rope is awkward. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: On my first go I got my leg caught behind a loop of rope (leading to a bad rope burn), rope was looping left from the ledge clip on Jurassic to first clip on Shape Shifter. Couldn’t find a way to make the rope work with extensions, slings etc. without it looping behind my legs. Ended up climbing Shape Shifter by coming in from the bolts on Buoys will be buoys to the left, this kept the rope well away from the crux moves for me. Could really do with another bolt adding at the ledge height to keep the rope going downwards and away from the leader, as that fall on to a diagonal rope is awkward. |
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| DylanAsena | 29 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder crux moves than in any 7b/+ I've done. But not a long crux and easy climbing up to it. Hard to grade but I think it's soft 7c or nails sequence for a 7b+... 7c-? 7b++? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Harder crux moves than in any 7b/+ I've done. But not a long crux and easy climbing up to it. Hard to grade but I think it's soft 7c or nails sequence for a 7b+... 7c-? 7b++? |
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| Climber_Bill | 17 May, 2015 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good boulder problem. Nice 7b+, not 7c. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good boulder problem. Nice 7b+, not 7c. |
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Route of Interest
Lunacy Booth
Grade: 7c ***
(Winspit)