UKC Logbook - 'Buoys will be Buoys'

27m.

Rockfax Description
A long stamina-route that is one of the region's best. Move up to the overhang and negotiate it on the right before heading up the wall above to a corner with a good crack in it. Climb the corner and the left-trending groove above to a roof and swing right along the breaks until it is possible to pull up onto the headwall and finish rightwards. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 10/Jul/1990.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , West Country Climbs , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , ULMC Classics , Portland 3 stars grades 6 and below , Portland , Spanish crew 2018 , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , Portland Trip , Portland Sendathon , Portland Olympian (6's, max stars) , Portland Olympian , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , Pongoose Portland Sport Climbing Gems

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User	Date		Notes
Joep88	2 Jun, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Rest needed before the crux. Relentless.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rest needed before the crux. Relentless.
Marti999	3 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Route has had full retro, after staple failour in June. Now safe to climb.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Route has had full retro, after staple failour in June. Now safe to climb.
Bennyboy1233	14 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Watched the one of the three anchor bolts pop out after climbing it, glad that didn't happen to me! Mental	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Watched the one of the three anchor bolts pop out after climbing it, glad that didn't happen to me! Mental
dparsons	13 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: One of the anchors came clean out yesterday (12th June) when engaged. The anchor was found and there was no apparent damage to it. Looks like it just came straight out and the resin failed :(	βeta?
Show beta βeta: One of the anchors came clean out yesterday (12th June) when engaged. The anchor was found and there was no apparent damage to it. Looks like it just came straight out and the resin failed :(
MarcinK	28 Mar, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Beautyful and strenious.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Beautyful and strenious.
hippo99	23 Jun, 2007	Show βeta βeta: well i thought it was a awsome route and a prefect one to cruise definatly deserves the 6b+ because if ur not that strong theres a few moves abouve the crack which are hard but i realy dotn think its that pumpy as there are 2 realy decent rests deserves the stars
Show beta βeta: well i thought it was a awsome route and a prefect one to cruise definatly deserves the 6b+ because if ur not that strong theres a few moves abouve the crack which are hard but i realy dotn think its that pumpy as there are 2 realy decent rests deserves the stars
Alun	12 Mar, 2007	Show βeta βeta: Easily one of the best routes in the area in this grade band. Interesting how some people find it harder and some easier. I thought it was a bit of a path for 6b+, but I did have the advantage of watched seen my mate on it first, so perhaps it just about justifies it.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Easily one of the best routes in the area in this grade band. Interesting how some people find it harder and some easier. I thought it was a bit of a path for 6b+, but I did have the advantage of watched seen my mate on it first, so perhaps it just about justifies it.
Alison Cairns	16 May, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Great route - sustained 6b to second last bolt then sting in the tail getting to and past the last. Quite hard (esp for short) and very committing!
Show beta βeta: Great route - sustained 6b to second last bolt then sting in the tail getting to and past the last. Quite hard (esp for short) and very committing!
Morgan Woods	5 Aug, 2005	Show βeta βeta: feels about 6c....made the mistake of traversing to the left at the top overhang then watched someone cruise it by going straight up. there is an old bolt about 2m to the left and slightly down which can be clipped if toproping afterwards to reduce any potential swings.
Show beta βeta: feels about 6c....made the mistake of traversing to the left at the top overhang then watched someone cruise it by going straight up. there is an old bolt about 2m to the left and slightly down which can be clipped if toproping afterwards to reduce any potential swings.
Jus	26 Mar, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Fab route. One of the best on the isle. 6b+	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Fab route. One of the best on the isle. 6b+