UKC

17m.

Rockfax Description
Varied climbing. Gain and climb a shallow corner to a horizontal break. A long move gains the next break and a lower-off above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 22/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Dorset 2-3* 6a's , Battleship Edge Sport Climbs , Sportland 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
CMHigginson 15 Mar Show βeta
βeta: None of the moves are harder than 6a, but the consistency and tack of rests makes it significantly harder imo
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: None of the moves are harder than 6a, but the consistency and tack of rests makes it significantly harder imo
JIMBO 19 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: A linkup from when they weren't fashionable (late 90s) is to climb this to about third height and traverse left along the chert band to finish up Reve d'un Corbeau and clip the Monoculture belay. Known as 'Reve des Femme Blonde" at about 6c
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A linkup from when they weren't fashionable (late 90s) is to climb this to about third height and traverse left along the chert band to finish up Reve d'un Corbeau and clip the Monoculture belay. Known as 'Reve des Femme Blonde" at about 6c
Rosi 17 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Some seepage made the middle section... interesting! The top is strenuous if you miss the undercut crimp under the ledge.
Show beta
βeta: Some seepage made the middle section... interesting! The top is strenuous if you miss the undercut crimp under the ledge.
Danos 12 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, but agree the start is a bit polished.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, but agree the start is a bit polished.
Guy Maccdox 1 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: There are five bolts, not four. The last one is shared with Serious Music.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are five bolts, not four. The last one is shared with Serious Music.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 101
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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