UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
An amenable classic taking a good line up the smooth-looking wall on the right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up grubby ledges to a fat peg belay below the wall. Follow the diagonal break that runs leftwards across the wall, passing between some much blanker terrain. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Currently (Feb 2025) the only viable approach is via Nocturne and across to the Pocket Symphony belay, from there a fixed rope (bolts) takes you to the large peg marks the start of the route next to one of the bolts. A significant amount of gardening has taken place which should make the route much more pleasant. Please try to pull out any new growth of grass or this climb will become seriously overgrown again.

FA. D.Burgess 1966.

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

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User Date Notes
Phil Lyon 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be ready for an adventure before you even think about climbing. And don\'t wear shorts; every type of British thorn bush lives on this approach slope.
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βeta: Be ready for an adventure before you even think about climbing. And don't wear shorts; every type of British thorn bush lives on this approach slope.
NIGBEE 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The scramble from the base of the chimney is worth roping up for especially if it is at all wet. I found the route nice but lots of the pockets were full of water/sludge
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βeta: The scramble from the base of the chimney is worth roping up for especially if it is at all wet. I found the route nice but lots of the pockets were full of water/sludge
supersteve 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure how a dirty, grassy route gets 3 stars, worth doing if you are bored, with some 4c moves thrown in.
βeta?
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βeta: Not sure how a dirty, grassy route gets 3 stars, worth doing if you are bored, with some 4c moves thrown in.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 23
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Snakes Alive

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)

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