The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies from Flying Doctor / The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).
Rockfax Description
A hard but exciting eliminate, especially in its upper reaches.
1) 5c, 38m. Climb The Thorn for 12m then move left and up into a shallow hanging groove. At its top, follow the rib and then do the crux of The Thorn. Move out right to a small stance in a groove.
2) 6b, 22m. Traverse right on the lip of the roof and enter a shallow scoop with difficulty. Climb up the scoop to a roof, then through this via a useful flake to a grubby exit. © Rockfax
FA. Phil Burke, Pete (the eponymous flying doctor) Thexton 1980.
Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution
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Grade: E5 6b ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)