Rockfax Description
One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and a classic of the crag. A superb central line with a well-positioned crux.
1) 4b, 28m. From the ever-dry cave, climb the slabby right wall right, then left, into the main groove. Easier climbing leads to threads (chains) under the huge overhangs.
2) 5a, 20m. Move out left and climb the short juggy rib to the bulges (several old pegs). Pull rapidly over to easier-angled ground in the groove above, continuing to belay in the big holly. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown Ron Mosley (some aid) 1954.
Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , Classic Peak Limestone Trad - VDiff to E2 , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , The Eal List , Dunc's ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Little Rascal | 17 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: There is insitu abseil gear on the holly of the final stance - aprox 45-50m to the base of the route. Beware bringing loose stuff down when pulling the ropes. Tat on the crux pegs is not in the best condition but can be backed up by larks footing with a sling. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There is insitu abseil gear on the holly of the final stance - aprox 45-50m to the base of the route. Beware bringing loose stuff down when pulling the ropes. Tat on the crux pegs is not in the best condition but can be backed up by larks footing with a sling. |
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Albachoss | 15 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Turd has fledged the nest | βeta? | |
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βeta: Turd has fledged the nest |
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Summit Sense | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Which ever swine left a turd on the Ivy Gash ledge 3m down from the abseil chains and couldn't be bothered to ab off and dig one in the undergrowth....I hope you don't come back and foul this crag again. Take care with your ropes, folks! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Which ever swine left a turd on the Ivy Gash ledge 3m down from the abseil chains and couldn't be bothered to ab off and dig one in the undergrowth....I hope you don't come back and foul this crag again. Take care with your ropes, folks! |
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Richard 261 | 6 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very nice, but what's the point of all the tat and rubbish people have hung round the crux. who puts this stuff on routes? (who carries a pocketful of string and tape with them when they climb?) Have these people never tried placing gear? - I must remember to take a Stanley Knife and a bin-bag with me next time. Shame the second pitch isn't a bit longer. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very nice, but what's the point of all the tat and rubbish people have hung round the crux. who puts this stuff on routes? (who carries a pocketful of string and tape with them when they climb?) Have these people never tried placing gear? - I must remember to take a Stanley Knife and a bin-bag with me next time. Shame the second pitch isn't a bit longer. |
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JMarkW | 4 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Maybe not one of the best limestone routes in the Peak, but good nevertheless. Steady at the grade, and a great crag. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Maybe not one of the best limestone routes in the Peak, but good nevertheless. Steady at the grade, and a great crag. |
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Chris the Tall | 5 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Felt more like 5b to me, and harder than any of the moves on Pocket Symphony - I was tempted to fall off just to do the baby bouncer thing on the pegs! Brilliant exposure | βeta? | |
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βeta: Felt more like 5b to me, and harder than any of the moves on Pocket Symphony - I was tempted to fall off just to do the baby bouncer thing on the pegs! Brilliant exposure |
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Si dH | 13 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: I thought this was good but the crux is unobvious and strenuous, and getting on for 5b IMHO - I found it a bit desperate. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I thought this was good but the crux is unobvious and strenuous, and getting on for 5b IMHO - I found it a bit desperate. |
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Wil | 19 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Great route. worth 3 stars. Conditions were odd - first snow of year with melting ice falling on route. Crag in full sun and warm though, but spoiled by wet muddy pockets on 1st pitch. Belayed from 2 good threads 4m to left (looking up) of chain - better placed. Once worked out, crux is straightfoward - solid 5a. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. worth 3 stars. Conditions were odd - first snow of year with melting ice falling on route. Crag in full sun and warm though, but spoiled by wet muddy pockets on 1st pitch. Belayed from 2 good threads 4m to left (looking up) of chain - better placed. Once worked out, crux is straightfoward - solid 5a. |
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MJS | 21 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: The exposure and fine climbing on the second pitch make this a great route. The crux is well situated and the rest is steady 4b/c climbing. If you are looking for a good early HVS on Limestone then ths is for you. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The exposure and fine climbing on the second pitch make this a great route. The crux is well situated and the rest is steady 4b/c climbing. If you are looking for a good early HVS on Limestone then ths is for you. |
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Ropeboy | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Probably better done as a second pitch to something like Pocket Symphony. A couple of threads make this an ok route and the difficulties are short lived. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Probably better done as a second pitch to something like Pocket Symphony. A couple of threads make this an ok route and the difficulties are short lived. |
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Newstones and Baldstones)