Rockfax Description
The middle girdle offers fine fingery climbing with a sting-in-the-tail crux. Start as for Beeston Eliminate.
1) 4a, 20m. Climb the cleaned stripe to the second big tree as for West Wall Climb (p.380 ).
2) 5b, 30m. Follow Beeston Eliminate to below the overlap just short of the stance. Traverse right descending slightly all the way to below the crux bulge of The Thorn. Climb down into the cave to belay.
3) 5b, 16m. Descend the diagonal crack/ramp then pull right over the bulge and follow a gently rising line to a small stance on the polished ramp of Central Wall.
4) 6a, 25m. Traverse right to gain the left-slanting groove of The Fly. Climb up this to hard moves left (old pegs) then up to easier rock and the abseil point. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Mid-level traverse finishing up the Fly
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Hen Cloud)