UKC Logbook - 'The Beest'

70m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A cracking eliminate with a lot of fine fingery climbing and just a little unsavoury grass to remind you where you are.
1) 6a, 28m. Follow Patience to the bulge, then make fingery moves through this. Keep slightly right to avoid the vegetation until a diagonal traverse leads to a stance below cleaner rock.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb steeply rightwards (twin threads) to a shallow groove. Climb the groove, then trend slightly left to the break. Step right to a thread then pull onto the headwall and climb this, past another two threads, to easy ground and the holly. © Rockfax

FA. Jeff Morgan Z.Dyszlewicz (8pts of aid) 1970.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak To Do , Lime trad for hobbyists

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User	Date		Notes
Katya	27 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Grading seemed correct to me - Both p1 and p2 would be trivial if you have a long reach. There is no "man sized hole" on P2... The plants are greatly reduced in size at present and the route clean, apart from the veg ramble at the end of p1.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Grading seemed correct to me - Both p1 and p2 would be trivial if you have a long reach. There is no "man sized hole" on P2... The plants are greatly reduced in size at present and the route clean, apart from the veg ramble at the end of p1.
TonyM	21 Sep, 2005	Show βeta βeta: I think the grading is correct and unlike many on Beeston not a bit soft. Thought the top pitch gave superb climbing, about same standard as Black Grub. OK, pitch 1 isn't so great - but the crux bulge felt 6a, esp. since vegetation, cobwebs and general grot was covering the best handholds!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: I think the grading is correct and unlike many on Beeston not a bit soft. Thought the top pitch gave superb climbing, about same standard as Black Grub. OK, pitch 1 isn't so great - but the crux bulge felt 6a, esp. since vegetation, cobwebs and general grot was covering the best handholds!
Alan James - Rockfax	21 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: The description in the guide is correct for pitch 1 of the Beest. The variation Ian mentions is the old direct start to Patience which goes at E2 5c and may make a suitable variation start for the Beest as well, but isn't where the original route was climbed.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The description in the guide is correct for pitch 1 of the Beest. The variation Ian mentions is the old direct start to Patience which goes at E2 5c and may make a suitable variation start for the Beest as well, but isn't where the original route was climbed.