Rockfax Description
95m. A highly recommended, sensational, improbable line. Protection is good apart from bold moves to gain the tiny ramp on pitch 2. Take plenty of small wires. Start at the left end of a long flake embedded against the right side of the wall.
1. 15m 5a Climb a narrow ramp leftwards, move right into a shallow groove, and climb it to a grass ledge at the base of a bigger groove on the right.
2. 35m 5c Take the left-leaning groove to the horizontal ledge. Traverse left about 5m along the fault to a small pedestal. Climb the wall above, then move left to gain a tiny ramp. Up this to a crack, then make a long step left into the base of a thinner crack. Climb the crack to a small roof. Go delicately left under the roof to the edge of nowhere, then return unexpectedly right to a belay above the right end of the ledge.
3. 45m 5b Climb the crack, and when it becomes unfriendly go right up to a large flake-ledge. Go on up the wall above to a smaller flake-ledge. Traverse left to a large block. Now trend rightwards across slabbier ground to a steep blocky finish.
FA C.Forrest, A.Nisbet, 1 Jun 1988 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Great Scottish E2s , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , North West Summer Road Trip , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , EUMC - Must do climbs , Hard Rock 2020 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Trad , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scotland , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Banfords Road Trip Ticklist , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls

Feedback Always Hide βeta