110m.
A modern description to a route of similar quality and difficulty as Groovin' High. Steep and spectacular climbing for the grade.
1. 45m 5b Pitch 1 of Pale Diedre, although the original route started 6m to the right, climbed via a small left-facing corner and joined Pale Diedre 10m up. Belay 5m right of Pale Diedre under the left of two corners.
2. 35m 5b Either climb the left corner or (easier) start up the right and gain the left at mid-height passing the remnants of an ancient rope sling. Move right and climb a wide crack behind a huge flake. Bypass a smaller flake to the right to reach a big left-facing corner. Climb this to half-height, then its right arete to reach a small ledge.
3. 30m 5a Step left and climb a wide square groove which passes between two roofs and leads to easy ground.
1. 45m 5b Pitch 1 of Pale Diedre, although the original route started 6m to the right, climbed via a small left-facing corner and joined Pale Diedre 10m up. Belay 5m right of Pale Diedre under the left of two corners.
2. 35m 5b Either climb the left corner or (easier) start up the right and gain the left at mid-height passing the remnants of an ancient rope sling. Move right and climb a wide crack behind a huge flake. Bypass a smaller flake to the right to reach a big left-facing corner. Climb this to half-height, then its right arete to reach a small ledge.
3. 30m 5a Step left and climb a wide square groove which passes between two roofs and leads to easy ground.
Ticklists
Robin Smith Legacy , Great Scottish E1 Mountain Routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Rope Solo , Summer Psyche
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| pjor | 20 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Agree with earlier comment that suggests shorter P2 to bottom of left facing corner and longer P3. That's what we ended up doing without having read that comment. Trying to run P2 as described leaves potential for alot of drag and unwise angles on gear in event of fall. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Agree with earlier comment that suggests shorter P2 to bottom of left facing corner and longer P3. That's what we ended up doing without having read that comment. Trying to run P2 as described leaves potential for alot of drag and unwise angles on gear in event of fall. |
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Route of Interest
Lucy Locket
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Creag Ghiubhsachain)