Rockfax Description
250m. Created by one of Scotland's master mountaineers to produce a VS route up the buttress and to give the best quality climbing. An easy but pleasant route up the right-hand side of the sandstone has been chosen as a start. Start at the right end of the grass terrace below the face, about 10m left of West-Central Gully.
1, 2. 70m Climb slabby rock parallel to the gully, choosing the easiest line on good rock to meet a barrier slab beneath Broad Terrace. Trend left up this, spaced protection, to the Terrace close to where the route continues. Here the highest sandstone forms a platform 10m above Broad Terrace. This is below the right-hand of two right-facing corners which each start about 20m up, and is about 50m right of the crest of the buttress (Pigott's Route).
3. 20m 4a Climb on to the platform and straight up to the left end of a ledge.
4. 20m 4b A fairly direct line up the wall above, slightly right, then left to finish up a corner.
5. 40m 4a Climb steep blocky ground.
6. 40m Scramble to the Upper Tier.
7. 30m 4b Start just right of the crest and a block resting against the face at a small right-facing corner with jammed flakes (between Pigott's and Hamilton's). Climb this and a wider corner-crack above. An easy way leads left to Pigott's, instead, move out right on to the crest.
8. 30m 4a Follow the crest steeply on good holds.
FA J.Colverd, E.Gillespie, A.Nisbet, 23 Mar 1998 © Rockfax

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