Rockfax Description
210m. An enjoyable classic climb up the quartzite, which can be climbed in boots. The holds are positive and it is only slightly harder in the wet. Start on Broad Terrace about 10m from its right end. Climb the steep face on good holds to a large ledge (30m). Continue up an interesting and varied series of pitches, often slightly right of the crest, to the top. A short vertical corner right of the crest is the crux and also the last difficulty before scrambling.
FA G.B.Gibbs, E.Backhouse, W.A.Mounsey, Jun 1907 © Rockfax
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Rock , The Baron's Bucket List , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , EUMC - Must do climbs , Soggy Diffs , Mountain Rock , Top 20 UK Diffs? , Scotland Ticklist , (V)Diffs to end all (V)Diffs , Greg's bucket list
User | Date | Notes | ||
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DizzyVizion | 4 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: In big boots. Traverse ledge was fine - just very very wet. Went left near the top for the exposed finish - this was fine also. Blasted by the wind at the end - an all round amazing day out! | βeta? | |
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βeta: In big boots. Traverse ledge was fine - just very very wet. Went left near the top for the exposed finish - this was fine also. Blasted by the wind at the end - an all round amazing day out! |
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Seán Fortune | 24 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Found the traverse in to be pretty ok; a couple of steps across an exposed section, but nothing tricky, and fine other than that; was expecting worse! Route is really solid as well- obviously loose stuff on various ledges, but the actual climbing is all fine. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found the traverse in to be pretty ok; a couple of steps across an exposed section, but nothing tricky, and fine other than that; was expecting worse! Route is really solid as well- obviously loose stuff on various ledges, but the actual climbing is all fine. |
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Steely12 | 2 Mar, 2023 |
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βeta: Traverse across the ledge was quite icy due to seepage. Didn't take our crampons so had to bail. | ||
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βeta: Traverse across the ledge was quite icy due to seepage. Didn't take our crampons so had to bail. |
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liensiwel | 28 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: The traverse to reach East Buttress (Diff) involves the highly unappealing prospect of crossing a largely holdless section which streams with water even after a good dry spell (July 2021). For your feet there is a very narrow vegetated ledge which may still be connected to the ledge and which will sink shoes to about two inches, even after a good dry spell. Midges will emerge from the mossy face and land on yours, even after a good dry spell. And if you get past this, there is an abyss to step across and a section of protection-less vertical grass to negotiate before reaching a suitable belay and ultimately the start of the route. All of this takes place after a 3 hour walk and above 50m cliffs. If this is your sort of adventure 'enjoy'. | ||
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βeta: The traverse to reach East Buttress (Diff) involves the highly unappealing prospect of crossing a largely holdless section which streams with water even after a good dry spell (July 2021). For your feet there is a very narrow vegetated ledge which may still be connected to the ledge and which will sink shoes to about two inches, even after a good dry spell. Midges will emerge from the mossy face and land on yours, even after a good dry spell. And if you get past this, there is an abyss to step across and a section of protection-less vertical grass to negotiate before reaching a suitable belay and ultimately the start of the route. All of this takes place after a 3 hour walk and above 50m cliffs. If this is your sort of adventure 'enjoy'. |
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Ulgrid | 6 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Surely one of the best routes of its grade in Scotland? Loose, but no more so than you'd expect on a big mountain route. Climbed together the entire way up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Surely one of the best routes of its grade in Scotland? Loose, but no more so than you'd expect on a big mountain route. Climbed together the entire way up. |
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sblake | 18 May, 2019 |
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βeta: very lose but a cool route | βeta? | |
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βeta: very lose but a cool route |
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Grade: D ***
(Opinan East)