UKC

110m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
110m. This line follows the chimney then continues straight up a magnificent crack through the big roof above. Very sustained, perhaps only 6a, and well protected, but requiring stamina to place all the protection. Start at the wet slit cave at the base of the chimney.
1. 25m 4c Climb loose rock on the left side of the cave.
2. 15m 5a Continue up the steep chimney-
crack to a ledge.
3. 15m 5b Climb a steep crack and the wall on the right to a good ledge.
4. 25m 6b Step left into the crack and climb it to a roof. Pull out rightwards into the continuation of the crack and climb it to the big roof (very sustained). Traverse right to a belay (which is more comfortable than it looks) at the right end of the roof.
5. 15m 6a Return left and climb the wide crack in the roof. Go leftwards up the thin ramp above to belay.
6. 15m 4c Move right and up a corner to the top.
FA G.Livingston, A.Nisbet, Jul 1987 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Crack apprenticeship - Highland North , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Sevs Power list of Justice , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Trad , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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User Date Notes
Callum_Johnson 4 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Linking the 6b pitch into the 6a is recommended, straightens out the route and avoids an uncomfortable belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Linking the 6b pitch into the 6a is recommended, straightens out the route and avoids an uncomfortable belay.

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
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Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Spirit Air

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Loch Maree Crag)

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