Rockfax Description
85m. The vertical crack-line and wall just right of Groovin' High, with an excellent crux pitch; clean, technical, well protected and very sustained. Possibly the best route in Scotland? Start 2m right of Groovin' High.
1. 30m 4c Climb corners and short walls to the large ledge 3m right of Groovin' High. Crawl right to belay.
2. 30m 5c Climb a steep corner, then the crack-line to enter a groove below a roof. Move left to good holds and re-enter the groove beside the roof. A strenuous bulge leads to a belay.
3. 25m 5b Take the shallow groove above to horizontal cracks. Traverse right into a corner, climb it and return diagonally left until above the belay at a small roof. Finish rightwards up a slight ramp and back left on big holds to the top.
FA A.Cunningham, A.Nisbet, 20 Jun 1987 © Rockfax
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Trad , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scotland , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Seán Fortune | 13 May |
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βeta: First pitch can (and should, it's meh) be skipped by heading up right then walk in along the ledge to the base of P2. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: First pitch can (and should, it's meh) be skipped by heading up right then walk in along the ledge to the base of P2. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Buachaille Etive Mor)