Rockfax Description
300m. The sandstone tier of West Buttress is quite formidable, so the described route misses it out and still provides some good situations up the quartzite tier. Scramble up the block-filled gully on the right (Fuselage Gully) to Broad Terrace (at the top of the sandstone tier). Go left along this until just short of the crest. Climb on the right of the crest, with short walls and occasional interest, to the base of the final tower. This is characterised by a steep wall on the frontal face. Climb a clean 9m wall strenuously on good holds. This leads to a recess on the left of the tower, whence an easy move left gives access to a flake-crack slanting up right. Climb this, with a fine exposed finish behind an enormous projecting block. Climb the wall above to the top. The final tower of the direct route can be avoided by walking right and climbing back left up a huge corner (D).
FA G.S.Bower, J.B.Meldrum (original), Jul 1919 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The sandstone tier is severe 4a, the quartzite is Diff.

Feedback Always Hide βeta