Rockfax Description
215m. Another magnificent route, taking the corner and slab overlooking the corner of Agony. The original line climbed easier ground to the left to arrive at the current pitch 3, still arguably E3! Start as for Agony.
1) 5c, 35m. Move up the main corner for 3m, pull into the corner up on the left and follow this to an awkward hanging belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Continue up the corner then exit left at the top to belay on Hammer below the Scoop. With 60m ropes it possible to climb 1 and 2 as a single stunning pitch.
3) 5b, 20m. Move up right to a thin crack, then climb up right to the obvious quartz pocket (passing the ‘pinch'). Step right almost to the edge and climb a crack to belay a short way below a small overlap.
4) 5b, 40m. Continue straight up the crack (the original line moved up left to join Hammer) and go over the small overlap to a finger slot 4m below an overlap. Either go up, then left beneath the overlap, or right, then up and left above the overlap; both finish at same belay on Hammer.
5) 5a, 40m. Move up the slab above to climb corners on to the upper slab and traverse left below the final wall to belay.
6) 5c, 25m. Climb a steep chimney come crack to a ledge, then walls and across to a recess and a tree.
7) 5a, 30m. From the top of the recess, climb the crack to the right of twin cracks. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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